August Orchard Tasks

6 Month Old Pluots and Pinny

Hi everyone! It’s been so awesome in the garden these last few weeks. After the rain we had last weekend, my garden literally exploded with growth! A lot of my veggie plants are stretching way beyond the size I had anticipated for them that I find myself constantly clipping things back ~ especially my squash plants and tomatillo. I really need to start composting.

Well, the month of August is well under way and I’ve compiled a comprehensive list of orchard tasks for you below. Since most of August’s tasks are the same as July, rather than list every item in duplicate below, I’d rather encourage you to thoroughly review July’s Orchard Tasks list before proceeding with the content below.  Before leaving this page, please note that I’ve listed below two updates along with a handful of new important tasks for the month of August.

Let’s get started…

Updates

  • Irrigation ~ during the month of August, the weather can be a bit more erratic here in the desert due to our summer monsoon season. Here’s a great example… just a little over a week ago, our daytime temps were hitting 108°F. Then a storm rolled in with lots of rain and the temps dropped to a muggy 81°F.
    Keep to the normal schedule of watering 3x per week and watch the weather closely. And remember… save water and save your trees from drowning by turning off your irrigation system if rain is imminent.
  • Finalize Your Fruit Tree Wish List in the next week or two if you’re planning to pre-order bare root fruit trees for planting next spring. Most nurseries and orchards start taking pre-orders for bare root fruit trees at the end of this month or early next month. Bay Laurel Nursery is my favorite online source for purchasing bare root fruit trees. They have a wonderful selection, awesome customer service and replacement guarantee (which they have honored [with a smile] on more than one occasion for me), reasonable prices and shipping costs, great packaging and they are a distributor of Dave Wilson Nursery fruit trees, which in my opinion (and the opinion of many other experienced orchardists) are the absolute best fruit tree stock available. Still need help deciding whether to buy bare root or containerized fruit trees? Check out my past posts Step 3: Purchasing the Fruit Trees (Part 1)  (Part 2)  and (Part 3) where I talk in great detail about bare root vs. containerized fruit trees.

New for August

  •  Check tree stake ties on first year fruit trees ~ loosen ties or remove and replace with a new tie to prevent girdling of the trunk. Some folks like to remove the stakes and ties shortly after new growth appears on a newly planted fruit tree, but I usually leave them in place until late fall.

Fruit Tree Water Basin

  • Deep soak water basins of trees at least 1x this month ~ in hot and arid climates, soil moisture can quickly evaporate allowing high concentrations of salts in the soil to accumulate. Ultimately, this increase in salts can be detrimental to your fruit trees and will kill off vital biology within the soil. Yes, the very life most of us are trying to cultivate in our soils.
    For this reason, it’s always good practice to regularly flush out excess salts away from the root zone by applying a deep soak of water just underneath the canopy of each fruit tree. This is especially true for folks who use drip irrigation in their fruit orchard. Even with running a flood bubbler setup like ours for irrigating our fruit trees, I still find it beneficial to schedule in a few deep soaks each season.
    To deep soak our trees, we do the following:

    • Replace one or our normal watering days with a deep soak.
    • Build a water basin under each fruit tree’s canopy by building up a 4-inch to 5-inch high ring of soil. This basin helps to catch rain water, too 🙂
      Note ~ when digging holes for our fruit trees, we made sure each planting hole had really great drainage.  Good drainage ensures that the water will quickly seep down into the soil and away from the trunk.
    • Next, place a water hose in the water basin then turn the water on to a nice flow that minimally disturbs the soil and slowly fills the water basin full of water. I run the water for approximately 30-40 minutes being careful to not let the water overflow the bank of the water basin.
    • To help keep track of time, I typically use a timer to remind me when to move the hose.
  • Check for and address any fungal disease issues ~ hot and humid weather is the perfect environment for fungal disease.

Mid-monthChojuro Asian PearIn late summer and early fall, fruit trees are preparing for next year’s growth by actively growing roots and storing truckloads of nutrients for next spring. Now is the time to kick soil biology into gear. Avoid using chemical N-P-K fertilizers ~ it kills soil life!

  • Kick soil biology into gear…

    • Spray effective microbes/mother culture or aerated microbial tea directly on the ground underneath each fruit tree every 7-10 days. When making your tea, be sure to avoid using animal manures ~ too high in nitrogen.
      and/or
    • Broadcast microbes and minerals underneath the fruit tree’s canopy ~ I like to use John & Bob’s suite of products.
  • Purchase and prepare a “fungal” dominated compost for spreading underneath the canopy of each fruit tree ~ fungal dominated compost is naturally high in lignin (wood) and low in nitrogen. Avoid using any type of bacterial based (heat processed) compost such as manure compost which tends to be high in nitrogen and salts. The goal here is to invigorate the soil biology to provide a store-house of bio-available nutrients that the fruit trees can readily take up and store for next year’s growth and use for this fall’s flush of root growth. A high nitrogen compost, like manure, will cause the tree to have a burst of vegetative growth (leaves) which is not ideal going into fall and its ensuing dormant season.
  • To prepare the fungal dominated compost:
    • Fungal dominated compost = use approximately ¼” depth of high quality fungal dominated compost per tree.
      For example: Each of my fruit trees have a 3 to 5 foot diameter water basin so I use approximately 2-3 gallons of compost for each tree.
    • Mix in a small amount of rock dust into the compost:
      • 8 ounces of Soft Rock Phosphate per tree
      • 8 ounces of Azomite per tree
    • Inoculate the compost/rock dust mixture by spraying with and gently mixing in one of the following:
      • Effective Microbes/Mother Culture
      • Aerated microbial tea (again, avoid manure)
    • Keep the compost moist until it is ready to spread under the fruit trees in early September.
      Though a fungal dominated compost is best, a beneficial alternative would be worm castings. Worm castings typically contain a lot of nutrition that’s been broken down by the worms into a simple form that’s readily available to the trees. It also provides a host of beneficial microbes. Just be sure the worms have been fed a vegetative diet that excluded manures and only use a small amount of it per tree because of its higher nitrogen levels. I would recommend starting out with a thin layer (maybe just enough to lightly coat the surface of the soil) and monitor the tree’s canopy growth. If there’s a flush of new leaf growth, use less the following year.

To prepare the worm castings (this can be prepared at the end of this month):

    • First, mix the rock dusts (same amount as above) with the worm castings.
    • Broadcast the rock dust and worm castings mixture underneath the tree canopy.
    • Next, inoculate the broadcasted mixture by spraying it with one of the following:
      • Effective Microbes/Mother Culture
      • Aerated microbial tea (again, avoid manure)
    • Water everything in.

Backyard Orchard Design

  • Finalize fruit orchard design/layout ~ especially if starting a new orchard. Having an orchard design layout in hand can be extremely helpful when making fruit tree purchasing decisions. Need a little help? Click here.
  • Now’s the time to submit a soil test to determine exactly what amendments are needed ~ you’ll be glad you did this! Be sure to check out my post on My High Brix/Nutrient Dense Growing Style ~ I  included lots of great info on soil testing.
  • Add amendments to fruit tree soil ~ add amendments based on the results of the soil test. Avoid digging amendments into the soil as it may damage the feeder roots.  Lightly scratch the amendments in or simply broadcast the amendments under the fruit tree’s canopy and water in.

End of the Month

Bare Root Fruit Trees

  • Pre-order bare root fruit trees ~ pre-ordering gives you the widest variety of fruit trees to choose from, or you can take your chances and purchase bare root fruit trees next spring from a local nursery or orchard. Typically, the selection is very limited and you may not be able to purchase the exact fruit tree(s) you really want.
    When I pre-order my bare root fruit trees from Bay Laurel Nursery, my account is usually debited a couple of days before my chosen ship date (which is in February). No money is required upfront. 🙂

Hope you found this task list helpful. Until next time we chat ~ eat homegrown!

God Bless,

AG_Signature_Color_Transparent

 
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4 Comments

Filed under Fruit Trees/Orchard, Monthly Task Calendar

4 responses to “August Orchard Tasks

  1. Love, love, love your blog, and feel so blessed that I’ve found another Mojave desert gardener who already has orchard trees established to look to. We are planning out our backyard orchard area currently, getting ready to order some more trees for the Spring and to put in some irrigation pipes for our watering system. I read in one of your posts that you have all your stone fruits in one orchard and your seed fruits in another? I couldn’t find it to reread why that was. We currently have a couple of almond trees along our back fence and were thinking of continuing in that direction with some pistachio trees to complete a row of nut trees, and then extend towards our house with fruit trees. I’d love to hear your thoughts on which type of fruit trees you would place in the same orchard as nut trees, or perhaps you could point me to a specific posting on that topic? Thanks! ~Becky in Hesperia

    • Hi Becky ~ you are so sweet… thank you 😀 I am so glad that we’ve been able to connect through my blog.

      I do love my fruit trees. They give us so much for such little investment of money and time. I’m glad you’re reading through my some of my orchard planning posts ~ I need to update some of the info (add to), but the information is still quite relevant to those planning a home fruit orchard.

      This fall I plan to add to my orchard series by writing detailed info regarding soil, planting hole preparation, and irrigation. Then, December/January I plan to write about how to plant bare root fruit trees and 1st year’s maintenance.

      I love your ideas for your orchard. Hubby and I are planning on adding to our orchard in 2016 and some of those trees will be more nut trees. To answer your question, I plan on writing a blog post this week about it so all my readers can benefit from the information. You are my inspiration for this upcoming post 💡 🙂

  2. Lois

    You are very organized and have a very nice Orchard.

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