Watering In Hot and Arid Climates

Haws Watering CanHi friends!

Today, I’d like to talk about a subject that is on the mind of every gardener… water. It’s especially true for the brave and adventurous souls who garden in hot and dry climate areas.

This is such an important topic here in the desert and one that needs to be given the attention it deserves. To that point, I started working on this blog post over two weeks go. I thought long and hard about how I wanted to approach this subject in order to give you concise, thorough and easy to understand information that you could take away and use in your own garden.

A lot of people would approach this topic by providing information on how they water their veggie plants… the formula that best serves their garden. I wanted to do more than that. To give you information that was more practical and usable than simply an explanation of what I do. Something that you can easily translate in your garden. But, in order to do that, it required a bit more reflection on the subject.  Especially since I am a firm believer that an effective watering plan requires more than just the water schedule component of the plan.

So how does a water-conscious gardener answer the question, “how much and how often should I water my garden?”

When I first moved to Las Vegas, Nevada from Southern California about eleven years ago, I was convinced my gardening days were over and my only growing options were either rocks, cactus, more cactus, mesquite, palo verde or palm trees. Well, after a lot of doubt, trial and error and LOTS of research, I gladly discovered I was absolutely and completely wrong.

For those of you who live in the Las Vegas area, I’m sure like me, you’ve encountered a number of opinions on the subject of watering a veggie garden. Even when discussing this topic with so-called local experts (i.e., plant nurseries, long-time gardeners, etc.). In my experience, most of the answers given are quite vague, confusing and incomplete.

Here’s just a few of the responses I received…

  • Keep the soil moist
  • Use a small stick placed against your skin to see how moist the soil is
  • Water frequently
  • Water deeply
  • Water several times each week
  • And my favorite… grow cactus

Pretty vague, right?

I’ve gotta give it to them…these are certainly answers, but like I said, they are all quite vague, confusing and incomplete. Worse yet, these simple answers make huge assumptions as to the knowledge and understanding of the person asking the questions. Especially, for someone who is new to gardening here in the desert. In my opinion, an absolutely horrible approach to an answer.

At times, it can feel like the real answer is top-secret only intended for a select few. This can be especially confusing and discouraging for those just starting to garden in our desert environment. So, upon receiving these vague answers, most folks will fall back on what they know about gardening, which is usually based on a location much different from our harsh climate. All the while, they continue to seek out a real-world answer to their question. Some stumble upon the answer, others keep pushing through being the dedicated gardeners that they are, and others, sadly become frustrated and give up.

Well, let me start by saying that I’m certainly no expert in irrigation, but I do have lots of experience in this area, talked with lots of experienced gardeners/growers here in town, done tons of research, and experimented a lot in my own garden. I also have a background in training, which I feel comes in handy when communicating the details. And, being a “transplant” to the Las Vegas area from a place so very different from here, I totally get it. Folks growing here for the first time could really use a bit more support and guidance than the standard answers above provide.

So to that point, the details that I would like to share with you may help to provide a better road map for you to navigate more effectively through this confusing topic and the ever elusive answer to the question, “how much and how often should I water my garden?” My focus today will be specifically on traditional watering methods such as drip irrigation and hand watering for raised bed growing. I’ll cover irrigation for home orchards in a later post.

Let’s dig in, gardeners!

Two Important Rules to Watering in Hot and Arid Climates

desert soilBefore we begin, there are a couple of very important things you must do in order to successfully navigate the topic of watering in a hot and dry climate.

#1 ~ Throw out everything you thought you knew about gardening

Well, that’s a pretty harsh statement, but for the most part it’s true. The desert is a very different environment from which to grow fruits and veggies than any other place within the U.S. The soils can be quite lifeless and can be hard as a rock and very difficult to dig or till. The native soil here is also very alkaline with a typical pH of 8.1 or higher and is considered calcareous (i.e. contains a good amount of calcium carbonate). Then to make matters even worse, desert areas usually have temperature extremes (hot in summer and/or cold in winter), lots of wind, monsoons, etc. A number of things to think about and give pause when planning a garden here.

A lot of gardeners here grow their veggies in raised beds to help avoid some of the potential issues from growing directly in the ground. Others are growing very successfully in-ground, but it does require some amending in order to do so (i.e., mixing in compost, etc.). Each growing option requires similar, but slightly different watering approaches and the information I’m providing here can apply to both growing methods.

With all that said, be confident in the knowledge that gardening in the desert can be quite successful and understand that a lot of the gardening practices that work in other parts of the country just simply do not apply here. For example, I love when I see magazine articles on watering that recommend watering 1x per week or less in the cooler months of fall and spring and in the heat of summer they recommend watering 2x, maybe even 3x per week. Yikes! In the heat of our summer, my veggie plants would be crispy dry on that schedule.

Sure, your expertise and past experience as a gardener will serve you well here and will help to close the gap considerably on your learning curve. Just try your best to be open to new ideas and methods in your new growing arena.

#2 ~ Never let the soil dry out, even in the first inch or so of soil

For now, just keep this in mind. You’ll understand “why this is important” down below.

Important Considerations

To answer the pressing question of “how much and how often should I water my garden?”, I feel it’s critical to have a basic understanding of the environment in which we grow in and the unique challenges it presents, especially ones that can negatively impact or sabotage even our best planned watering schedule.

When putting together a successful watering plan, especially for our blistering hot summer months, I highly recommend that desert gardeners seriously consider the following two key points.

  • Evaporation
  • Soil salinity

To me, these considerations are just as important as water itself. To only consider the water component of your plan would be like getting dressed in the morning and forgetting to put shoes on. You go about your day walking barefooted in your finely appointed business attire or casual wear. Sure, you’re dressed, but something is really missing. And your feet are probably feeling the pain by the end of the day. Just like your plants will if you ignore these key considerations.

So, let’s break these down.

Consideration #1 ~ Moisture Loss (a.k.a. Evaporation)

Anyone and everyone who lives in a hot and arid climate has had some experience with moisture loss in their garden soil. The 110°F+ summer heat, dry air, and drying winds are sure to wreak havoc with the success of even the best watering plan. It can present a constant battle in trying to keep your soil moist and your plants well watered.

To help navigate through these challenges, some people like to add amendments to their soil like peat moss, coconut coir, vermiculite, etc. Myself personally, I typically steer clear of adding these types of amendments to my raised bed soil. The soil/compost (a forest green waste compost) I’m currently using to fill my raised beds has proven to be very effective when it comes to holding onto moisture while still remaining nice and crumbly. Using this soil/compost helps to eliminate the added expense of peat moss, coconut coir, etc. and allows me to focus my gardening dollars on amendments that I consider to be much more critical like earthworm castings, rock dusts, and mycorrhizal inocculants. The real garden super stars. Who knows, in the future I may change my mind about using these types of amendments, but for now, I’m sticking with what works in my garden.

Artistic Gardener's Veggie GardenIn addition to the super star amendments I use in my garden, I also like to use other moisture retaining methods, that in my opinion, do a much better job at keeping moisture where it belongs… in my soil. Let me introduce you to what I like to call, “the dynamic duo”…

  • Intensive planting
  • and, Mulch

Intensive Planting

Intensive Planting

Molokhia (Egyptian Spinach), bush variety heirloom sweet potatoes, and Pepperoncini peppers grown closely together.

A key step in this method of gardening is to plant your veggie plants closely together in order to shade the soil underneath, dramatically reducing the evaporative effects of our hot summer sun. The shading also helps to keep your plant roots cooler, too.

Intensive planting can be done with a complex variety of vegetable and herb plants inter-planted together, or as simply as planting a single variety. The key here is the close spacing. An intensively grown garden also maximizes on space and produces more yields due to the higher number of plants within the garden. A very nice thing if you have only a small space in which to grow your own food.

Cinnamon Basil, Sweet Potatoes, and Peppers Intensively Planted

Cinnamon Basil, Thai Basil, bush variety heirloom sweet potatoes, and Cayenne Peppers grown closely together.

Long Purple eggplant and Lemon Basil grown intensively

Long Purple Eggplant and Lemon Basil growing closely together. I just recently removed a Bennings Green Tint Scallop Squash and Green Onions. Swiss Chard, Flat Leaf Parsley, Rocket Arugula, and Easter Egg Radishes are now starting to grow in their place.

For those interested, I’m currently working on developing a helpful guide that will contain a detailed plant list with intensive planting space information that I will be making available free of charge to subscribers of my blog. Keep your eyes peeled.


The compliment to intensive planting is mulch. Though the closely spaced plants do a great job at providing shade, cooling the soil and keeping moisture right where you want it, our hot drying winds and dry climate can still do a fine job at wicking away that precious moisture. That’s why it’s important to reduce this risk by covering the soil with a nice layer of mulch. For well shaded areas, I would recommend about 1-inch to 2-inches thick and for more open areas 2-inches to 3-inches.

There are a number of mulch options available to gardeners, such as…

  • Compost (non-manure)
  • Straw (weed free)
  • Pine shavings ~ animal bedding (untreated)
  • Hardwood shavings (i.e., alder)
  • Composted wood chips (wood chips from a tree service ~ let sit for about 2 years to compost)
  • Red or silver mulch


Wood mulchThere are pros and cons to each, so choose one that best suits your gardening style.

Currently, I’m using a thin layer of vegetative compost covered with about 1-inch of composted wood chips. I am considering one of the other mulch options (maybe hardwood shavings), because wood mulch comes with a definite ouch factor and can be harder to work around. I used it because that’s what I had on hand at the time.

Consideration #2 ~ Soil Salinity

Soil salinity is an often overlooked and under discussed topic in hot and dry climate gardening. A travesty actually. Like evaporation, soil salinity is another game changer when it comes to how you water and how often you water your garden. Choosing to pass over this consideration when developing a watering plan, can be quite damaging to your garden and can create a lot of “head scratching” moments when trying to determine the cause of its damage.

Typical arid climate soils, manure composts (a.k.a. Biosolids and animal manures), green/food waste composts  (restaurants/casinos), and composts in general that are allowed to dry out are all extremely high in salts. And to add insult to injury, at least in the Las Vegas area, our water supply is fairly high in salts, too. So needless to say, we have a salt challenge that we have to deal with.

In the garden, we can exacerbate the high salinity issue by allowing the top layer of soil in our gardens to dry out even just a bit, which increases the likelihood that damaging salts will be wicked up and begin to concentrate in the root zone of our plants. This my friends is bad news!

The issue is magnified when soil regularly goes through moisture fluctuations. Like when the top few inches of soil dries then it’s watered enough to just moisten the soil, then the soil is left to dry out a bit again until the next watering. You get the point. One of the keys to keeping soil salts at manageable levels is to keep the soil moist at all times, and never left to dry out, even just a little. This is especially true during the heat of summer. Over watering will also cause salinity issues by preventing the salts from being flushed away properly from the root zone.

High soil salinity can be very damaging and will

  • kill beneficial soil microbes
  • reduce uptake of water and nutrients
  • reduce plant vigor and growth
  • decrease the nutrition of the fruit (i.e., brix levels)
  • negatively impact yields
  • interfere with seed germination
  • cause leaves to yellow and discolor along the leaf margin
  • damage or worse yet, kill your precious veggie plants

I plan to do a blog post solely dedicated to the topic of soil salinity and its effects within the veggie garden.

Side-Note on Shade Cloth

There are a lot of opinions for and against the use of shade cloth in desert gardening. But the following facts are undeniable. In addition to providing much-needed shade for ourselves, shade cloth also helps the soil to retain moisture by reducing the evaporative effects of our hot summer days. Especially if using raised beds to garden in.

Shade cloth is not a requirement, but I thought I’d mention the option here.

NOW We Can Talk About Water (finally!)

Dramm Water BreakerOkay, now that I’ve talked your ear off about some very important considerations when creating a successful watering plan, I feel more comfortable in turning our attention to the actual water portion of the plan. So, let’s talk water.

At this point, some of you are eagerly waiting to jot down a detailed irrigation formula that you can apply to your garden with either the turn of a few dials on your water station controller or a couple of turns of your hose nozzle. In all honesty,  it would be highly irresponsible of me to provide you with a “one-size-fits-all” formula ~ there are just way too many variables to consider. And, it may be much harder for you to make adjustments if things go awry (i.e., heat waves, cold snaps, super high winds, etc.). What I can give you are some important key observation points and tips to look for in your garden to help you determine when to water.

I’ve already given you a handful of very important points to seriously consider when putting together your watering plan. Important points that will help your garden soil to hold onto the precious water you apply as well as manage a unique challenge we face in hot and dry climates… high salinity. With this information, you can now teach the “so-called” experts a thing or two and you’re one huge step closer to a successful watering plan.

Let’s do a quick recap of those very important points of consideration…

  • Keep your soil moist at all times = never let your soil dry out, not even an inch
  • Keep your soil consistently moist at all times by avoiding moisture fluctuations
  • Help your soil retain precious moisture by keeping it shaded and protected from our hot sun and drying winds by using intensive planting and mulch

Okay, for those of you who have quickly scanned through my post to this point, I highly encourage you to go back and actually read the details so you have a “real” understanding of why these points are so important.

Now let’s take a look at what Moist Soil really means along with some of the fundamentals of recognizing exactly when to water by using some of the most basic, simple, and free tools available to you… your eyes and hands. Yes, we’ll be fine tuning our observations skills at this point.

Visual Observations

Most of us are very familiar with what dry soil and very wet soil looks like, but there may be some of you who are still perplexed as to what “moist” really means in the veggie garden. First, I’ll state the obvious…

Moist soil is definitely not loose, dry and dusty when it’s picked up in your hand (i.e., easily blows away and slips through your fingers).

Dry dusty soilIt’s also not muddy, squishy and dripping wet. Wet garden soilWhen squeezed in your fist, Moist soil will hold a nice firm shape upon opening your hand.  No drips of water. No gooshy mess. The clump will also hold its shape even after being placed onto the soil surface and gently rolled around a little. Moist soil has a beautiful dark rich color with a definite glistening sheen to it.

moist garden soilMoist soil also crumbles apart easily when you poke it or move it around in the palm of your hand with your fingertips.  Consistent moist soil is the target goal.

Moist soil crumblesNow, on the other hand, if you squeeze and release the soil in your hand and it starts to break apart in large chunks or in half upon opening your hand, it’s time to water again. The soil will also have a nice dark color to it, but the surface will have a much lower sheen than moist soil will.

Soil when ready to water

It’s also important to note that just after watering, your soil will be more “wet” and may easily squeeze through between your fingers when you make a tight fist around it, though it should not be a sloppy, gooey, dripping wet mess like mud.  Then you’re applying way too much water. It’s best to wait about an hour or so after watering to check your soil’s moisture again.soil after wateringIn addition to grabbing some soil from the top 3-inches and squeezing it to check the moisture level (like above), it’s important to dig down and check the moisture level at about 6-inches and 12-inches deep.  This is the critical root zone area. Keep in mind that not all plant roots go to this depth, but I like to err on the side of caution. If the water you’re applying fails to seep down into this area, your plants will suffer. For optimum moisture for your plants, the soil must be sufficiently moist from the soil surface down to about 12-inches deep.

Another quick test you can do is simply scratch at the soil surface (about 1-inch deep) to visually see if the soil has moisture. I would not rely on this test to determine if you need to water or not, but it can help you to keep tabs on the moisture level at the soil surface fairly regularly if you incorporate this into your day-to-day gardening tasks. Fairly dry soil at this level is not really a good thing and you should dig down deeper to check the soil further. Nice moist soil deeper down may just mean that your soil needs a good layer of mulch if there is none.

moist soil surface

Soil that still has some moisture in it (i.e., not bone dry) yet fails to hold a shape after squeezing it in your hand is pretty dry and has gone too long without additional water. This drier soil will also have a lighter color to it. Soil that is allowed to dry out regularly to this point before watering is considered the definition of moisture fluctuation within the garden. When this occurs, soil salinity will rear its ugly head and make its presence known.

Fairly dry soil

Soil Moisture

On the other hand, soil that remains fairly wet on a regular basis can also spell trouble for your garden. It can literally suffocate your plants by depriving them of oxygen, especially within the root zone area. Root rot and a variety of diseases can also occur. Soil that is moist and has a nice crumble to it allows your plant’s roots to easily move through the soil, and get the moisture, nutrition and oxygen they need to thrive.Wet soilI regularly “squeeze” my soil, as demonstrated above, to check the moisture levels and its worked quite well for me and my garden.

To perform this test in your garden, I would recommend that you water your garden as usual and wait about 1-2 hours before testing it. Grab, squeeze, and observe soil from the top 3-inches, then from 6-inches deep and finally from 12-inches deep. Spend a day (or two) adjusting the length of time and frequency you water, testing and retesting until you ‘re able to consistently achieve soil that is at the “ready to water” point (see above). This process will help you to dial in the watering schedule that’s perfect for your garden.

For those of you who really want to start from a baseline for watering during the summer months using drip irrigation, try running your system so that it delivers about 3-inches of water each week. You can check your drip irrigation manual to determine the length of time it will take to accomplish this. Using that number, work your way from there.

As you go forward with implementing your watering plan, know that you’ll probably need to make a few adjustments along the way as you become more familiar with your soil, your irrigation system and our climate. Unless, of course, you’re one of the lucky few who just have a knack for it. Most of us need a little time to dial it in.

Frequent Short Cycles vs. Infrequent Deep Cycles

When it comes to watering in the desert, there are two distinct camps.  One swears by frequent short water cycles. The other, infrequent deep cycles. Both camps usually water on a daily basis during the heat of summer.

Personally, I lean toward the deep watering but I refuse to take a firm stand either way. There are pros and cons to both. As long as the soil remains consistently moist from the soil surface down to about 12-inches deep, either method can work.

When first implementing a water plan, whether you’re using drip irrigation or hose watering, frequent short cycles or infrequent deep cycles, the soil needs to start off sufficiently moist. I always recommend using a hose to really wet down the soil in the garden before starting. It just helps to get things moving along properly.

Starting irrigation on fairly dry soil can be a challenge and will take time to moisten up properly. Any plants in the bed will suffer for it.  Dry soil can be extremely difficult to wet and if not properly wetted before planting, any water applied has a tendency to run right through the soil and out the bottom of the raised bed leaving behind some moist areas (usually around the emitters) and some dry areas. In the heat of summer, soil salinity will be a major concern at this stage.

This coming season, I’ll be experimenting with an OMRI approved soil wetting agent in my blueberry raised bed. Right now, it’s bone dry and has lots of peat moss in it. Yikes! I’ll be sure to provide an update when we get started.

Putting It All Together

For some of you, checking you soil’s moisture level as I illustrated above, may seem like work, but trust me, once you get the hang of it, it actually takes very little time to complete. Plus, it really helps you to get up close and personal with what’s happening in your garden. Come on… as a gardener, this is just one more opportunity for you to play around in your soil without anyone questioning why. And, as I like to say, “time in the garden is always time well spent”.

Now, if you prefer to use gadgets, you can always try to use a moisture meter. Personally, this tool has not proven itself useful in my veggie garden, though I do use a meter in my fruit orchard. There are a few digital meters on the market that may work better for raised bed veggie gardens than the meter I have, but they can be on the pricey side.

Moisture meterAnother method of determining how much and how often to water is to look at specific plant water requirements. In my experience, the average information on how many inches of water per week different plants require can be somewhat tricky when translating those numbers for use in hot and arid climates.

For instance, I use Netafim Techline CV 0.9 GPH drip irrigation lines for my vegetable garden irrigation. I also supplement water 1x a day by lightly hose watering or using my fav watering can, which helps me to stay connected with my garden :)

The drip irrigation I use puts out 1/4-inch of water every 10 minutes. To apply 1-inch of water per week would require me to run my system for 40 minutes total each week. So if I go by standard recommendations to water most of my veggie plants about 2″ of water per week, that would mean I should run my drip irrigation system for about 80 minutes total each week. This would translate to about 11 minutes total each day. Early on in my process, I ran my system on this schedule during summer and you know what happened? Yup, I had little crispies growing in my garden! Maybe its enough water for other parts of the country, but for here… not enough. Our moisture-sucking hot and arid climate requires at least double that or more.

Initially, I used these numbers as a baseline for my watering plan, but now… I rely heavily on regular observations of my soil to help dial in my watering schedule. And most of all… my plants are happy.

101014_Water_12Hopefully, I’ve helped you to navigate through some of the confusion around watering in our desert climate and helped guide you in determining the best garden watering plan for your veggie garden.

To wrap things up, I’ll leave you with this summation…

Intensive Planting + Mulch + Consistent Soil Moisture = Growing success in your garden!

Haws watering can and seedlings

May God bless your garden with health and abundance.

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Filed under In The Veggie Garden

September Orchard Tasks

092614_WonderfulPomegranateHi friends. It’s time to get started on fall tasks in the backyard orchard. Fall is the time of year our fruit trees begin to wind down from all their hard work producing delectable fruit for us earlier in the year. The process of storing up nutrients for next spring’s growth is well underway as the trees begin to ready themselves for their short winter rest before they get to do it all over again.

Before I get too far into my post, I want to make sure I give a warm welcome to all you John Kohler GrowingYourGreens fans visiting my blog. Thank you for stopping by and checking out my humble little gardening blog… I hope you enjoy your visit.

Before we get into the topic at hand, I wanted to quickly share with you something that happened yesterday. Mother nature decided to unload her cache of rain on us late yesterday afternoon wreaking havoc in my garden. The storm started with a bright flash of light and a loud crackling sound in the sky. I know this because I was outside gathering up the butternut squash I had curing on a homemade bench.  As soon as I brought in the last squash, the sky let out an intense thunderous rumble followed by a surge of super-sized rain drops. Within minutes of entering the house, hurricane force winds blew in and started thrashing my fruit trees around violently, then it started to rain like I’ve never seen it rain before. All I could think of as I watched the downpour in disbelief was “the hundred year storm”.  Most of my backyard turned into a lake with wood mulch floating around. I didn’t even want to think about what this storm was doing to my garden and orchard.

This morning, I assessed the damage.

092614_StormGood news is both my front and backyard orchards weathered through the hurricane force winds and torrential downpour like champs. No broken limbs or damage, only bunches of green leaves spread around everywhere. My vegetable garden is another story. Everything definitely got jostled around and a few plants were damaged. Nothing I’ll lose sleep over.

The heavy-duty 6″ metal stakes that secured our EMT shade cloth frame securely to the ground, were uprooted and the entire unit was lifted up and moved about 2′ tweaking and twisting the pipes and disheveling our 30% shade cloth.

Most of our vegetable plants sailed through with flying colors (no pun intended), but  a few plants, like my 7′ tall Molokhia (Egyptian Spinach) plant, broke in half and one of my trellised tomato plants was damaged beyond repair. Unfortunately, our roof took a hit, too :( It could have been a lot worse. Some clean up and yet another home repair job and all will be right in the world again.

September Orchard Tasks092614_Orchard

This month’s orchard task list is a bit more relaxed than in previous months, but there are still a few critical items that need to be tended to, especially for those of you who are still harvesting. I encourage you to review both August’s Orchard Tasks list and July’s Orchard Task list before proceeding with the content below.

Do not be alarmed if some of your fruit trees start to look a wee bit haggard (browning leaves, etc.) this month. Some trees may even experience a small spurt of tip growth this time of year if the weather is still warm accompanied by a good amount of rain. No worries… things in the orchard will start to quiet down soon enough.

As I mentioned earlier, our fruit trees are still actively storing nutrients for next season’s growth. And for us, well, sadly our fruit harvest season is slowly coming to a close with only our pomegranates and Pink Lady Apples left to harvest later this month and in October. Then it’s back to buying store-bought fruit until next May :(  This will change in the near future. We already have plans in place to extend our fruit season.

Now, let’s get started with September’s task. Most, if not all, of these tasks should be started toward the end of the month (a.k.a. ~ now). Sorry for the late post folks ~ life happened.

  • Irrigation ~ continue to water 3x a week this month (15 mins for trees less than 1-year-old and 20 mins for older trees); Note: these watering times are for fruit trees that are grown ladderless and are kept at about 10 feet high or less.
  • Order bare root fruit trees now for delivery in February! Put all your orchard planning into action by placing your bare root fruit tree pre-order with a reputable local nursery or online source. I pre-order my bare root fruit trees from Bay Laurel Nursery ~ they sell quality tree stock and have an awesome guarantee (which they’ve honored for us on more than one occasion).
  • Inoculate your fruit tree soil with beneficial microbes ~ if you missed doing this task last month, be sure to complete it this month.
    • Spray effective microbes/mother culture or aerated microbial tea directly on the ground underneath each fruit tree every 7-10 days. When making your tea, be sure to avoid using animal manures ~ too high in nitrogen.
    • Broadcast microbes and minerals underneath the fruit tree’s canopy ~ I like to use John & Bob’s suite of products. You will only need to do this 1x in Fall and again in early Spring. I like to do both. I’ll start by applying John & Bob’s Penetrate product, then broadcast directly underneath each trees canopy John & Bob’s Maximize, Optimize and Nourish products. I’ll lightly cover the soil surface with either a high quality fungal-based compost (no manure) and/or worm castings then water everything in. Next, I’ll begin spraying the soil with effective microbes/mother culture every 7-10 days during this month and into October. Also, be sure to read last month’s task list about kicking soil biology into gear along with some great how-to tips.
  • Add amendments to fruit tree soil ~ if you missed doing this last month, you still have time to do it this month. I always recommend applying amendments based on results from a soil test, if not… it’s just guesswork.
    • Avoid digging amendments directly into the soil as it may damage the feeder roots.  Lightly scratch the amendments in or simply broadcast the amendments under the fruit tree’s canopy and water in.
  • Fruit and Nuts you could be harvesting this month includes…
    • Almonds
    • Apples
    • Figs
    • Jujube
    • Peach
    • Pears
    • Pecans
    • Persimmons
    • Plums
    • Pomegranates
    • Quince
    • Walnuts
  • Now is the perfect time to prepare for fall’s orchard clean-up activities by gathering together some necessary tools…
    • A wheel barrel
    • Rake
    • Pitch fork (for spreading wood mulch)
    • Metal screening (to make a temporary area for holding dried leaves ~ which is perfect “brown” material for composting)
  • Order wood mulch from a local tree service for delivery in early October. We use First Choice Tree Service here in town and a truckload of wood mulch is free of charge ~ they do charge a delivery fee (around $50 or so). When scheduling delivery, be sure to request wood mulch that is free of palm, walnut (which contains growth inhibitors), and anything that has nasty painful thorns (i.e., Mesquite, Palo Verde, etc.). My experience has been that some of this stuff still makes it way into the wood mulch ~ so you just need to toss the stuff out when you come across it when spreading around the orchard floor.
  • Plan your freeze/frost protection strategy now. Here in North Las Vegas, Nevada our first average frost date is typically around November 21st – 30th. There’s a lot of conflicting info out there, and some say our average first frost date is November 7th – 14th, but the most accurate info that I’ve found (based on weather trending info for this area) is plantmaps.com.

Hope this list helps in your home backyard (or front yard) orchard :D

God Bless,




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Filed under Fruit Trees/Orchard, Monthly Task Calendar

Fall Garden Planning

Lemon Queen SunflowerHi friends! Hope your week has been beyond wonderful :)  While many of you may be gearing up for the holiday weekend, hubby and I have been working on repair projects around the house and putting together our fall planting plan. Yup… it’s that time again. Actually, some folks here in the Las Vegas area are already planting their fall veggies.

In my garden, I like to plant my fall crops in mid to late September for a number of reasons.

1) It’s still pretty hot outside right now and I want to be able to give my baby plants the “best” start possible in the garden. Planting when it’s still too hot for cool weather crops can really stress them out and impact their growth and future yields. I’ll be starting some seeds indoors this weekend using my soil block maker. I really do love this tool.

2) At the end of summer, I like to do soil testing and amend my beds based on the test results for optimum nutrition (a.k.a. growing high brix/nutrient dense).

3) My plan usually involves a staggered approach. I’ll start with one bed by removing all of the plant material, add the required amendments then let it rest for a week or so. After planting it out, I’ll start the process on another raised bed and so on. Sometimes the process isn’t as clean-cut as this, but I rarely do a big haul and remove everything at once.

3) This time of year, there are still so many great summer veggies growing in my garden. Most of my veggie plants have gotten their second wind for the season and I really like to wait a little longer to harvest all of my summer rewards… like buckets full of pepperoncini peppers, cayenne peppers, butternut squash, Zatta melons, tomatoes, poha berries, and a variety of summer squash and eggplants. To rip out all of my summer veggie plants would mean losing pounds and pounds of great healthy produce. As long as I have plenty of food growing in my garden I’ll continue to let it grow.

4) I use frost protection on my raised beds in late fall and through winter which helps out tremendously with my delayed fall planting. This gives my plants a chance to grow and I can harvest later in the season and throughout the winter months. This approach has really worked out well for me. No need to feel rushed.

5) To minimize pest problems. This is especially true for this year since we had those nasty Bragada Bugs earlier on. They’ve been MIA in my garden for the past month or so (a really good thing), but I plan on planting several veggies in the brassica family (broccoli, kale, mustard, etc.) and the temps are still perfect for their re-emergence so my fall garden will definitely benefit from a later start.



I typically start my fall planting plan process in early August. First I’ll take quick stock of what I have on hand then, hubby and I spread out the seed catalogs and scour through its content to see if there’s anything new we’d like to grow in the upcoming season.

There are a small handful of seed companies that I like to order seeds from, but I’ve chosen only two catalogs to order my Fall seeds from this year. My favs for fall are…

Baker Creek Seed CompanyBaker Creek Heirloom Seeds ~ To date most of my seeds I’ve ordered have come from this awesome company. I love the fact that this seed company offers some very unique varieties of heirloom seeds. They’ve also signed the Safe Seed Pledge, a public declaration of their policy to “steer clear” of genetically engineered seeds or plants. This is extremely important to me and I make it a point to only purchase seeds from companies who have taken this pledge.

As a company, they have a great selection and their catalog is by far the absolute best when it comes to photos. It’s a very beautiful catalog that’s sure to please just about anyone who grows their own fruits and veggies.

Their online ordering process is very easy to use and their seeds are always neatly packaged with a small thank you ~ a free seed packet. Some of my fav veggies to grow have come from their chosen free selection for me :) They also get a huge +++ for their shipping costs. The best I’ve ever found ~ $3.50 an order.

Bountiful GardensBountiful Gardens ~ This is the first time I’ve ordered from this company and I do have to say that I’m impressed. I also just recently discovered that this catalog is a project of the Ecology Action organization. A company that is dedicated to biointensive growing practices and teaching their methods around the world. Unfamiliar with biointensive growing? Be sure to check out their website and John Jeavons’ book How To Grow More Vegetables.

Their online ordering process was very easy to use and they’ve also signed the Safe Seed Pledge. Their shipping costs are a bit more expensive but still reasonable. Their catalog does carry a wide selection of heirloom quality veggie seeds with some planting information. What I’m most impressed with is how quickly I received my order. I opted for the least expensive shipping option and still received it within only a few days. The packaging was nicely put together with a nice note about recycling/reusing the shipping materials :)

At this point I have not planted the seeds yet, so I’ll have to let you know how the seeds do. I’m expecting quality.

The Plan

Now, if you’ve been reading my blog for even a short while you’ll know that I’m a planner. A big time planner at that. I personally find it challenging to plant things willy nilly in the garden because I like to maximize my growing space the best I can. I am, however, always impressed with those folks who can go out into their garden and plant out a beautiful garden spread without much planning effort.

For now though, my process and growing practices dictate a more planful approach. In a single season, it’s normal for me to grow 25+ varieties of veggies and greens. To fit everything in, I start with a well thought out layout.Garden Planner

To quickly build my layout, I created a custom grid-layout using a professional graphics program. In my custom file, I’ve also set up circular objects that represent each of the plants I will be planting out that particular season. Keep in mind that everything is to scale. Just below each object I’ve listed out things like days to maturity, size, etc. for quick reference as I’m laying things out.Planner

I typically start out with size information that I’ve obtained from online, a garden book or from a seed catalog. As I grow each veggie plant, I’ll make note of the final maturity size in my garden then I’ll update my circular objects accordingly.

Sure, there are tons of applications out there that I could use that’s done some of the work for me, but I have yet to find one that gives me the level of scalability and flexibility that my own system provides me. I simply move things around until I get the right fit keeping in mind the height of each plant. My personal system is a blend of biointensive and square foot gardening.

The initial time and effort it took me to set my system up was well worth the effort. Now, it’s just a matter of adding to or updating my library of plant objects and adding in new raised beds.

One online application that I like above all the others is Smart Gardener.  It’s a free application and has a lot of easy to use tools. They do have a number of plants in their database and have given folks the option of adding plants into their system. In my opinion, it’s one of the drawbacks of the application. There does not seem to be any real checks and balances for this added info and there can be several individual listings for the same plant. This adds time and effort when searching for a specific item. They do have a fairly robust search functionality, that allows you to weed out some of the duplication. Check it out for yourself. Note: I am not in any way being compensated for my opinion or mention of this product ~ I just simply wanted to pass along the info to you.

What Are You Planning to Grow This Fall? Leave me a comment, I’d love to hear all about your plans for your garden this fall.

As for me, I’m planting the following:

  • Arugula
  • Beet, Albino
  • Beet, Chioggia
  • Beet, Detroit Red
  • Beet, Golden
  • Beet, Shiraz
  • Broccoli, Waltham 29
  • Carrot, Amarillo
  • Carrot, Cosmic Purple
  • Carrot, Lunar White
  • Carrot, St. Valery
  • Celery, Tendercrisp
  • Chives, Garlic (Chinese Leek)
  • Collard, Vates
  • Garlic, Inchelium Red (softneck)
  • Garlic, Lorz (softneck)
  • Garlic, Spanish Roja (hardneck)
  • Garlic, Thermadrone (softneck)
  • Greens, Corn Salad
  • Greens, Miner’s Lettuce
  • Greens, Minutina
  • Greens, Salad Burnet
  • Greens, Salsola soda (Agretti)
  • Greens, Tatsoi
  • Herb, Cilantro
  • Herb, Giant of Italy Parsley
  • Kale, Dwarf Siberian
  • Kale, Nero Di Toscana
  • Kale, Red Russian
  • Kale, Trenchuda
  • Kohlrabi, Purple Vienna
  • Leek, Blue Solaise
  • Lettuce, Bronze Goldring
  • Lettuce, Hungarian Pink Winter
  • Lettuce, Red Romaine
  • Lettuce, Red Sails
  • Lettuce, Rocky Top Mix
  • Mustard, Red Streaks
  • Onion, Ailsa Craig
  • Onion, Bianca di Maggio
  • Onion, Green Bunching
  • Onion, Mill Creek Red Onion
  • Onion, Red of Florence
  • Parsnip, Hollow Crown
  • Pea, Desiree
  • Pea, Little Marvel
  • Pea, Lincoln
  • Pea, Sugar Snap
  • Radish, Easter Egg Mix
  • Radish, Rat’s Tail
  • Spinach, Low Acid
  • Swiss Chard, Flamingo Pink
  • Swiss Chard, Rainbow
  • Turnip, Orange Jelly/Golden Ball
  • Turnip, Purple Top
  • Wheat, Emmers
  • Wheat, White Sonora

Told you I like to plant a wide variety of veggies and greens :) This year we’re trying our hand at growing some winter wheat in our 10×10 raised bed.  Both varieties are very old heirlooms and are so different from the wheat varieties grown today. These two wheat varieties are both low in gluten and can possibly be eaten by those with wheat and gluten allergies. I’ve been off wheat and gluten for almost three years now and I plan to try my hand at making sprouted bread with this grain. I’ll keep you posted.

Well, I have a lot of work ahead of me so better get busy. Oh, remember to leave a comment about what you’re growing this fall. Have a great holiday weekend with your family and friends and enjoy the sunshine in your garden!


God Bless,

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Filed under In The Veggie Garden

Weeping Santa Rosa Plum

Bumble Bee on Santa Rosa Plum flowerHi friends! Today I thought I would highlight one of my backyard orchard fruit trees… my Weeping Santa Rosa Plum. Of all my fruit trees, this one stands out from the rest not only because of its stately manner but for its beautiful weeping structure. In full bloom, the tree looks like it’s covered in a soft blanket of pure white snow. The tree also lights up in early summer with luscious burgundy color as the fruit begins to ripen. Fruit ripens on the tree at different times displaying a gorgeous contrast of colors which is especially eye-pleasing.

In the Beginning

I’ve mentioned this story before, so I’ll just highlight a couple of important events.  One was the fact that we joined up with an organic gardening group just weeks prior to our first bareroot fruit tree pre-order.  And two, joining the group and the events that quickly followed catapulted our long-time orchard dream into reality.

The first meeting we attended was actually a presentation about growing fruit trees in our area by horticulturalist Bob Morris, who at the time headed up the UNCE Test Orchard project in North Las Vegas. At this presentation, a list of recommended fruit trees was provided and reviewed in great detail. It was also mentioned that the group was putting together a bulk fruit tree order that would come directly from Dave Wilson Nursery in California. The best source for quality fruit tree stock. The timing and valuable information couldn’t have been more perfect. God’s divine inspiration. That’s the moment we knew our orchard was meant to be.

Upon receiving our order, we were quite fortunate to acquire the most beautiful plum specimen for planting in our long awaited orchard. Our baby Weeping Santa Rosa Plum stood about 6 feet high with about a 1-1/2-inch to 2-inch diameter trunk. Lower down the trunk was a bit thicker. The tree also had a handful of arching branches coming straight off the top.

I have to admit that we were a little intimidated by the tree at first.  It was so different from all the other trees and it obviously would require a much different approach to the initial cut at planting. This initial heading cut is especially important for those planning to keep their fruit trees ladderless (i.e., low enough to gather fruit by hand without using a ladder).Weeping Santa Rosa PlumWhen planting our other baby fruit trees, we lopped off their tops leaving the trees at a height of about 36” high or so. Keep in mind that if we had purchased a regular Santa Rosa Plum we would have made the initial cut in the same manner. But, when it came to our Weeping Santa Rosa Plum we were very hesitant in doing this. Especially since we had very little to no instruction or information on how to approach that first cut on this type of fruit tree. So to be safe, we left the tree pretty much as is and removed only a few small branches coming off the center of the tree, which were sticking straight out at eye level and a potential “eye-poke” hazard.

As I stand here today three years later, gazing upon my beautiful Weeping Santa Rosa Plum and its beautiful long weeping branches, I’m so glad we decided to keep the original height and had sense enough to leave those baby arching branches in place to grow. Today, the branches have plenty of room to weep downward toward the soil’s surface and is the perfect tree for Pinny to shade herself while I’m tending to the orchard.

Weeping Santa Rosa PlumWithin a few short weeks after planting, the new leaves appeared followed by a small handful of flower buds shortly thereafter. At bloom, we received a very nice preview of snow white plum flowers that we would definitely admire more of in the very near future. Weeping Santa Rosa PlumWith consistent regular watering, no additional pruning, and two applications of the John & Bob’s suite of products that first year, our Weeping Santa Rosa Plum was definitely on its way to being the healthy beautiful fruit tree it is today :)Weeping Santa Rosa Plum

2nd Year

During the second year, my fruit orchard was kind of on its own with minimal attention due to my health issues. In January that year, just before the onset of my illness, hubby and I were able to attend several extremely informative pruning demonstrations by horticulturalist Bob Morris at the UNCE Test Orchard in North Las Vegas. Then, just a few short days after pruning and white washing all of my own fruit trees, I became critically ill.

For the next year-and-a-half, my physical activity was extremely impaired and hubby had his hands full taking care of me and the household. During this time, I mustered up the energy to take notes of important events in our orchard, take a number of photos and write a small handful of blog posts. I think doing these few tasks gave me a wee bit of normalcy in my life. A really good thing.

As for maintenance that year, it was pretty basic… regular watering (using a hose), one application of iron (EDDHA) and two applications of the John & Bob’s products. Thinning the fruit and harvesting was very minimal since our fruit trees were still small.

By the end of the second year, with just the basic care, my young spindly Weeping Santa Rosa Plum emerged into a gorgeous statuesque tree with a trunk that nearly tripled in size.

All of our fruit trees were champs that year and weathered our medical storm (so to speak) with flying colors! A testament to their health and our loving dedication.

3rd Year

Our Weeping Santa Rosa Plum’s (and orchard’s) third birthday. While tending to my pruning and white washing tasks this past February, we had a decision to make regarding our plum tree. Early last year, I noticed a few “wild hairs” (branches) growing straight up at the top of my plum tree. With everything going on that year we just left it alone.

By the beginning of this year, those upward growing branches had grown a lot and turned out to be really nice potential producers with small fruiting spurs all up and down the branches. Something I definitely wanted to preserve.

Weeping Santa Rosa Plum

Weeping Santa Rosa PlumSo, rather than prune these branch beauties off, we decided to reel them in by carefully tying parachute rope onto the branches and staking it down securely into the ground. This has really helped to maintain the tree’s shape very nicely.

Fruit Tree Tie DownFruit Tree Tie DownWeeping Santa Rosa PlumWeeping Santa Rosa PlumYummy Plums!

I really cannot say enough nice things about this tree and its fruit. Besides being super sweet and delicious, the color of the fruit is just stunning.

Weeping Santa Rosa PlumWhen considering the Weeping Santa Rosa Plum or the standard Santa Rosa Plum tree, keep in mind that these plums have fruit spurs. These spurs are the points at which the flower blossoms will appear and then the fruit. For the most part, these spurs will last the life of the tree producing fruit year after year. Because of this fact, every effort should be taken to protect them from being damaged or worse yet, removed! Once a fruit spur is removed, it will never grow back. Ever. This is the reason I take it upon myself to do the bulk of the harvesting. Don’t get me wrong… hubby does a fine job harvesting, too, but is usually pretty busy working on other tasks in the garden or around the house and will help out when there’s a large haul. It’s more a rule for when others come to visit our property, especially during harvest time. No unsupervised picking of fruit on this tree please :D

Weeping Santa Rosa PlumMind you, these spurs can take quite a bit of beating and will eventually cover the branches from top to bottom with their beautiful presence. Personally, I’m just a little over protective of my trees.  Okay, maybe super over protective.

Plum fruit spurFor those faint of heart, know this. You will have some spur loss over the life of the tree and in most cases, it will be by your hand! It’s inevitable and so easy to do, especially while harvesting deep inside the interior of the tree. Either a shirt sleeve will get caught or a pant leg and as you pull away you take out one or two fruit spurs. Or as you’re picking fruit, you sort of pick off the fruit along with the spur and leaves. Ooops. Been there done that. Just don’t sweat it. It happens to the best of us.

Weeping Santa Rosa Plum


The Weeping Santa Rosa Plum and plums in general, typically do not have a lot of pest problems, but they can be vulnerable to wood borers. So keep a watchful eye on main scaffolds, the trunk and the crotch areas.

Plum fruit can also be a target for thrip damage. To date, I’ve only seen some slight damage, not much, unlike my nectarine which gets lots of thrip damage each year. Thrips love nectarines! I’m not sure if they’ll go after my Nectaplum fruit, which is a cross between a nectarine and a plum. Only time will tell.

To date, our biggest “plum” threat has been from birds. The plum tree comes in second for the most bird damage. As soon as the fruit starts to change from green to burgundy, the birds start-a-peckin’ and it only gets worse as the color deepens. With our fruit orchard in full production this year, we’ve seen a lot more bird damage on all of our fruit tree’s fruit, but the bird’s favorites are still our fig and our plum. It’s just something about these fruits they just love.

Weeping Santa Rosa PlumTo help keep the bird damage down to a minimum, we starting installing our bird netting frame. I’ve never seen more frustrated birds in my life. Several birds, mostly finches and mocking birds, will gather at the top of the frame making their disapproval known to all who will listen.  They’ll test the netting in several places before giving up and flying away. It’s especially entertaining for us and an easy target for Pinny to bark at and shoo them away. Pinny agrees!Weeping Santa Rosa PlumWell, I’m sure I can go on and on about my wonderfully productive plum tree, but I’ll spare you the “my child does this or that stories”. So, before you go, I’ll share with you a few photos of the interior of the tree and provide a few quick stats.

Weeping Santa Rosa PlumWeeping Santa Rosa PlumWeeping Santa Rosa PlumWeeping Santa Rosa Plum

Quick Stats

Harvest Stat


Weeping Santa Rosa Plum Stats


Weeping Santa Rosa Plum

Until we chat again!

God Bless,

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Filed under Fruit Trees/Orchard

Fruit and Nut Tree Planting Strategy

Weeping Santa Rosa PlumHi friends! Lately, I’ve had a few of you ask about my orchard planting strategy. More specifically, why I laid out and planted my orchard the way I did.  So with that in mind, I’d like to talk with you today about how I came up with my fruit tree planting plan. Basically, my approach to the pressing home orchard question ~ what will go where and why?

When planning out our front and backyard fruit orchards, we had several important decisions to make before putting pen to paper. Especially since we had already decided to take full advantage of the fact that our community was HOA-free. To do this, we decided to set up two separate and distinct orchard areas… the back yard and the front yard. It was so nice to be able to use our front yard this way without hesitation or without someone else’s permission. To celebrate our bureaucratic freedom, I did a little happy dance in our front yard, of course being careful not to trip over the bazillion-and-one large rocks and boulders we inherited from the previous owners o_O

Front yard orchard and rocksIn making the decision to use both the front and backyards for our orchard, we knew it would bring with it a number of planning challenges and questions that needed to be answered. Much of which involved lots of note taking, brainstorming, preliminary sketches, as well as hours of research. We wanted it to be as close to “right” as we possibly could get it.

From the very beginning, our hearts were set on growing a wide variety of fruits and nuts like peaches, apples, pomegranates, figs, apricots, almonds, pistachios and so much more. A good mix of stone fruits, seeded fruits and nut trees. We also wanted to leave room in the orchard for a few fruit trees that may appeal to us down the road.

Backyard OrchardWith this desire for variety, we really had to hunker down and do our homework to properly address the question ~ what will go where and why?

Answering this question for ourselves was far from straightforward and involved a good amount of research, brainstorming and sketching things out on paper. So to just pass along a snippet of info or to simply hint at our solution would be doing a disservice to those who would like more direction with this topic. For this reason, I’ve listed out our complete strategy below.

What Will Go Where?

We started to address this question by putting together our wish list of fruit and nut trees. With our list in hand, we could easily begin researching each tree’s requirements and attributes. Also, keep in mind that at this point we had already decided to maintain both orchards as ladderless by keeping our fruit trees at around 8’ high and 10’ wide. So the need to know each tree’s maturity size was rather pointless.

Backyard Orchard

Backyard OrchardAs I began my research, I thought it would be helpful to gather the following information…

  • Approximate harvest dates
  • Category of fruit (stone fruit, seeded fruit or nut tree)
  • Identify as Self-fruitful or Pollinator Required (+ a list of potential pollinator trees)
  • Root stocks (we used the UNCE Orchard’s recommendations)
  • Maintenance requirements (i.e., pruning, water, etc.)
  • Photos of each fruit tree in bloom as well as with and without leaves

Next, I decided to seek the advice of a master gardener here in Las Vegas, Nevada who had extensive experience working with fruit and nut trees at the local UNCE/Master Gardener Orchard here on the north end of town. Her advice was to keep the seeded fruit trees in one area and the stone fruit trees in the other. This advice appealed to my analytical side and seemed quite orderly to me at the time.

With the advice still fresh on my mind, I decided to dig deeper into my research. I wanted my decisions to be based on well-thought out and factual information versus something that just calmed my need for organization.

As I continued collecting data, I decided to enter it into an Excel spreadsheet to make life a little easier for myself. I also found it helpful to make a separate list of things I wanted to address with the orchard. Things like…

  • Shade
  • Privacy
  • and Visual Appeal (both inside and outside my home)

Important Considerations

Based on my research, I identified the following important considerations for fruit tree placement within a home orchard…


As I reviewed my list of fruit trees and information, I realized that several of the fruit trees I chose required pollinators. My research had revealed that for the best pollination possible, the closer the fruit trees were planted to their pollinator the better. This fact alone dictated placement for several of the trees on my list.

For Example: my Pluots (Flavor King, Flavor Queen, Flavor Supreme and Flavor Grenade) all require a pollinator such as a Burgundy Plum or a Santa Rosa Plum.  Some of the Pluots can even be pollinated by another Pluot. I chose to go with the beautiful Weeping Santa Rosa Plum.

Flavor Grenade and Flavor Supreme PluotsOther trees on my list that required pollinators were the Asian pears.  My low-chill cherries also require a pollinator, but we planted these later in a couple of the “reserved” spots within our orchard.

While researching, I came across several knowledgeable resources that mentioned cross-pollination with the same fruit-type can produce better yields. I’m uncertain if this is truly occurring in my orchard or not.  Currently, I have just one Aprium (apricot/plum), one nectarine and one peach tree that are self-fruitful and I had a bumper crop with all of these trees this year.  So, unless my bees are tracking in pollen from other fruit trees in the area (which may very well be the case), my trees are super-stars at returning the love they’re given :D


Here’s an important consideration that a lot of folks forget to think through. Maintenance. Which trees are going to require the most attention and care?  Will some of the trees require lots of summer pruning or have the potential for mushy fruit on the ground? Doing both a backyard and a front yard orchard? Where do you think you’ll spend most of your time?

For me, I knew that the bulk of my time would be spent in the backyard orchard since this is where my veggie garden is located and the bulk of our fruit trees would be. That’s why I wanted my front yard orchard to be lower maintenance than the back and chose seeded fruit like apples and asian pears.  Both have a tendency to grow much slower than some of the stone fruit though my Hosui Asian Pear’s new growth reaches for the sun and requires minor summer pruning.

In my opinion, stone fruit trees are much higher maintenance than seeded fruit trees. Stone fruit trees require heavier pruning in spring and one or more summer pruning each year. And from my experience, these trees, especially my peach, can make a yucky mushy mess with its more frequent fruit drop. Keep in mind that any fruit tree can make a gooey sticky mess under its canopy if the orchardist fails to pick up the dropped fruit in a timely manner. Just saying.

My ginormous white nectarine that I've already summer pruned extensively 3x this year

My ginormous white nectarine that I’ve already summer pruned extensively 3x this year

Now to be only fair, I must mention that my aprium, pluots and plum are fairly “mess-free”.  They are a preferred target for the birds and can drop bird pecked fruit on a fairly regular basis. To me, these trees would also be great candidates for a front yard orchard, except for the fact that they do require bird protection ~ which can look quite unsightly.

Keeping trees with similar maintenance requirements in the same general area can help make quick work of the “clean-up” process. After planting, I did find this to be true and I’m so glad we incorporated this into our plan.

I also found it extremely helpful, especially in the beginning, to have fruit trees with similar pruning requirements close by each other . It just makes pruning tasks go that much faster. Less “stop and think” action.

Saturn PeachFruit trees with similar pruning requirements:

  • Peaches and Nectarines
  • Apricots, Plums and Pluots
  • Apples, Pears and Quince
  • Figs, Pomegranates and Persimmons
  • Almonds and Pistachios

Citrus and cherries have their own set of pruning requirements.

Pest Control

Some fruit and nut trees require just a little bit different approach to pest control. Especially from the furry and feathery kind.

Early on, we knew that we would need to do some sort of bird netting setup on our fruit trees but had no clue as to what that really looked like at that time or how to account for it in our overall orchard design.

Our current bird netting frame system worked out quite well for us, in our backyard orchard, based on some of the other decisions we made in our orchard plan (see Harvest below). Because our bird netting frame is quite large and obvious, we have been extremely reluctant to use it in our front yard orchard. Our Black Mission Fig tree in the front can definitely use some help, though ~ and soon! It’s become a favorite dining spot for Mocking Birds of all ages to sink their beaks in and feast on our delicious sweet figs. When we’re lucky enough to be able to eat one, we can delight in how great they taste this year.

Black Mission FigHarvest

I think the key to our bird netting frame success and ease of use revolves around the fact that we took the time to consider harvest times in our fruit tree placement. It has worked out nicely being able to, for the most part, harvest our way consecutively down a row. There’s just something very satisfying about this process. Check. Done. Move to the left :)

Goldkist ApriumIrrigation

Another important consideration is water. Based on my research, I confirmed that most of our fruit trees have similar watering requirements, except for a small handful of trees that require either less water or a different watering approach (i.e., pomegranates, citrus, avocado).

Forgetting to plan this out properly could become problematic. Planting a water-thirsty tree, like a fig, smack dab in the middle of an orchard full of drought tolerant, low water usage fruit trees would not be ideal. It could work if an additional water source was available or if the water-thirsty tree was on its own water-line (an irrigation planning nightmare in the making?). Both would require more effort on the orchardist’s part.

We knew we needed to do something different for our pomegranates, citrus and future avocado, so we segmented a section off from the main backyard orchard just for these trees. A separate water-line was dedicated to this area so we could adjust the water specific to their needs.

Front Yard Orchard

Still using a temporary watering system in our Front Orchard and we give our water-thirsty fig an extra sip of water each week from a nearby hose.

Fruit Pilfering

Let me first start this section by saying that I tried to come up with a gentle term for this, but I guess I have to call it for what it is.

Fruit pilfering is wise to consider, especially if growing fruit trees in an unprotected area for all to see, like a front yard orchard.  It’s a very important consideration for those who are really bothered by the thought of others helping themselves to fruit.

With our decision to set up a front yard orchard, we felt fairly safe doing so since we planned to initially encircle our orchard with the bazillion hard to maneuver rocks and boulders in the front yard. Later, we plan to enclose our front yard with fencing or a wall of some sort and a gate. Also, our neighborhood does not have sidewalks, so onlookers have to admire our trees from afar.

It also helps to share fruit with neighbors. They can enjoy the harvest with you and will be more likely to keep another set of watchful eyes on the orchard :D

Aesthetics and Privacy

Most people either overlook this consideration or focus most of their attention on it. Both actions can easily come back to bite you in the ole’ rumpola and it may be next to impossible to try to work this into the plan after all the fruit trees have been planted :'(

Myself personally, aesthetics and privacy are important to me. I love looking out the windows of my home to see my orchard trees. The orchard is quite beautiful throughout the different seasons, but especially in the spring when all of the flowers are blooming. I also love the privacy that some of my well placed fruit trees provide us.

One of my requirements was to plant a fruit tree with exceptional beauty qualities just outside my kitchen window. Something extra beautiful that I could gaze upon from my kitchen while chopping up fresh veggies or washing my freshly harvested fruit. Hence the placement of my newly planted Spice Zee Nectaplum. It has gorgeous dark red leaves in early spring and turns a nice shade of green in summer. It’s especially nice that the new growth in summer comes out red then changes as it matures.

Spice Zee Nectaplum

There’s a part of me that wishes I would have planted the Weeping Santa Rosa plum just outside the kitchen window with its lovely weeping structure, but I do have it planted fairly close by and can see it from the kitchen as well.

In addition to a few focal point trees in the orchard, we also wanted to shade the west wall of our home to help keep the house cooler during the summer months. Hence the pomegranates being planted up against that wall. We knew they could take the heat well and would grow quickly to provide the shade we wanted.


Other Needs To Account For

Finally, we gave careful consideration to any “special requirements” that some of the fruit trees on our list have.

  • Wind protection (Pluots)
  • Winter protection (Citrus and Avocados)
  • Afternoon shade (Cherries)

A Special Note About Nut Trees

Before I conclude, I’ve listed a few points for those of you who are planning to grow nut trees.

  • Avoid planting nut trees right up against a wall if squirrels or other rodents are a problem; it gives them super easy “private” access into the tree
  • Beware of black walnut toxicity ~ it can hinder the growth of certain trees and plants around it (by several feet)
  • Nut trees can be planted just about anywhere or with any other fruit or nut tree, as long as it has plenty of sunlight, the right amount of water and room to grow.
  • Some nut trees, like pistachios, need a male tree that can pollinate several female trees


For the home orchardist, I feel it makes very little difference whether you group your fruit tree plantings by stone fruit, seeded fruit or nut trees –or- intermix your fruit and nut tree varieties… as long as you’ve properly planned and considered all of your likes and dislikes, options, tree requirements, etc. when making your final planting decisions. Planning is key!Orchard Planting Plan


God Bless,

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August Orchard Tasks

6 Month Old Pluots and Pinny

Hi everyone! It’s been so awesome in the garden these last few weeks. After the rain we had last weekend, my garden literally exploded with growth! A lot of my veggie plants are stretching way beyond the size I had anticipated for them that I find myself constantly clipping things back ~ especially my squash plants and tomatillo. I really need to start composting.

Well, the month of August is well under way and I’ve compiled a comprehensive list of orchard tasks for you below. Since most of August’s tasks are the same as July, rather than list every item in duplicate below, I’d rather encourage you to thoroughly review July’s Orchard Tasks list before proceeding with the content below.  Before leaving this page, please note that I’ve listed below two updates along with a handful of new important tasks for the month of August.

Let’s get started…


  • Irrigation ~ during the month of August, the weather can be a bit more erratic here in the desert due to our summer monsoon season. Here’s a great example… just a little over a week ago, our daytime temps were hitting 108°F. Then a storm rolled in with lots of rain and the temps dropped to a muggy 81°F.
    Keep to the normal schedule of watering 3x per week and watch the weather closely. And remember… save water and save your trees from drowning by turning off your irrigation system if rain is imminent.
  • Finalize Your Fruit Tree Wish List in the next week or two if you’re planning to pre-order bare root fruit trees for planting next spring. Most nurseries and orchards start taking pre-orders for bare root fruit trees at the end of this month or early next month. Bay Laurel Nursery is my favorite online source for purchasing bare root fruit trees. They have a wonderful selection, awesome customer service and replacement guarantee (which they have honored [with a smile] on more than one occasion for me), reasonable prices and shipping costs, great packaging and they are a distributor of Dave Wilson Nursery fruit trees, which in my opinion (and the opinion of many other experienced orchardists) are the absolute best fruit tree stock available. Still need help deciding whether to buy bare root or containerized fruit trees? Check out my past posts Step 3: Purchasing the Fruit Trees (Part 1)  (Part 2)  and (Part 3) where I talk in great detail about bare root vs. containerized fruit trees.

New for August

  •  Check tree stake ties on first year fruit trees ~ loosen ties or remove and replace with a new tie to prevent girdling of the trunk. Some folks like to remove the stakes and ties shortly after new growth appears on a newly planted fruit tree, but I usually leave them in place until late fall.

Fruit Tree Water Basin

  • Deep soak water basins of trees at least 1x this month ~ in hot and arid climates, soil moisture can quickly evaporate allowing high concentrations of salts in the soil to accumulate. Ultimately, this increase in salts can be detrimental to your fruit trees and will kill off vital biology within the soil. Yes, the very life most of us are trying to cultivate in our soils.
    For this reason, it’s always good practice to regularly flush out excess salts away from the root zone by applying a deep soak of water just underneath the canopy of each fruit tree. This is especially true for folks who use drip irrigation in their fruit orchard. Even with running a flood bubbler setup like ours for irrigating our fruit trees, I still find it beneficial to schedule in a few deep soaks each season.
    To deep soak our trees, we do the following:

    • Replace one or our normal watering days with a deep soak.
    • Build a water basin under each fruit tree’s canopy by building up a 4-inch to 5-inch high ring of soil. This basin helps to catch rain water, too :)
      Note ~ when digging holes for our fruit trees, we made sure each planting hole had really great drainage.  Good drainage ensures that the water will quickly seep down into the soil and away from the trunk.
    • Next, place a water hose in the water basin then turn the water on to a nice flow that minimally disturbs the soil and slowly fills the water basin full of water. I run the water for approximately 30-40 minutes being careful to not let the water overflow the bank of the water basin.
    • To help keep track of time, I typically use a timer to remind me when to move the hose.
  • Check for and address any fungal disease issues ~ hot and humid weather is the perfect environment for fungal disease.

Mid-monthChojuro Asian PearIn late summer and early fall, fruit trees are preparing for next year’s growth by actively growing roots and storing truckloads of nutrients for next spring. Now is the time to kick soil biology into gear. Avoid using chemical N-P-K fertilizers ~ it kills soil life!

  • Kick soil biology into gear…

    • Spray effective microbes/mother culture or aerated microbial tea directly on the ground underneath each fruit tree every 7-10 days. When making your tea, be sure to avoid using animal manures ~ too high in nitrogen.
    • Broadcast microbes and minerals underneath the fruit tree’s canopy ~ I like to use John & Bob’s suite of products.
  • Purchase and prepare a “fungal” dominated compost for spreading underneath the canopy of each fruit tree ~ fungal dominated compost is naturally high in lignin (wood) and low in nitrogen. Avoid using any type of bacterial based (heat processed) compost such as manure compost which tends to be high in nitrogen and salts. The goal here is to invigorate the soil biology to provide a store-house of bio-available nutrients that the fruit trees can readily take up and store for next year’s growth and use for this fall’s flush of root growth. A high nitrogen compost, like manure, will cause the tree to have a burst of vegetative growth (leaves) which is not ideal going into fall and its ensuing dormant season.
  • To prepare the fungal dominated compost:
    • Fungal dominated compost = use approximately ¼” depth of high quality fungal dominated compost per tree.
      For example: Each of my fruit trees have a 3 to 5 foot diameter water basin so I use approximately 2-3 gallons of compost for each tree.
    • Mix in a small amount of rock dust into the compost:
      • 8 ounces of Soft Rock Phosphate per tree
      • 8 ounces of Azomite per tree
    • Inoculate the compost/rock dust mixture by spraying with and gently mixing in one of the following:
      • Effective Microbes/Mother Culture
      • Aerated microbial tea (again, avoid manure)
    • Keep the compost moist until it is ready to spread under the fruit trees in early September.
      Though a fungal dominated compost is best, a beneficial alternative would be worm castings. Worm castings typically contain a lot of nutrition that’s been broken down by the worms into a simple form that’s readily available to the trees. It also provides a host of beneficial microbes. Just be sure the worms have been fed a vegetative diet that excluded manures and only use a small amount of it per tree because of its higher nitrogen levels. I would recommend starting out with a thin layer (maybe just enough to lightly coat the surface of the soil) and monitor the tree’s canopy growth. If there’s a flush of new leaf growth, use less the following year.

To prepare the worm castings (this can be prepared at the end of this month):

    • First, mix the rock dusts (same amount as above) with the worm castings.
    • Broadcast the rock dust and worm castings mixture underneath the tree canopy.
    • Next, inoculate the broadcasted mixture by spraying it with one of the following:
      • Effective Microbes/Mother Culture
      • Aerated microbial tea (again, avoid manure)
    • Water everything in.

Backyard Orchard Design

  • Finalize fruit orchard design/layout ~ especially if starting a new orchard. Having an orchard design layout in hand can be extremely helpful when making fruit tree purchasing decisions. Need a little help? Click here.
  • Now’s the time to submit a soil test to determine exactly what amendments are needed ~ you’ll be glad you did this! Be sure to check out my post on My High Brix/Nutrient Dense Growing Style ~ I  included lots of great info on soil testing.
  • Add amendments to fruit tree soil ~ add amendments based on the results of the soil test. Avoid digging amendments into the soil as it may damage the feeder roots.  Lightly scratch the amendments in or simply broadcast the amendments under the fruit tree’s canopy and water in.

End of the Month

Bare Root Fruit Trees

  • Pre-order bare root fruit trees ~ pre-ordering gives you the widest variety of fruit trees to choose from, or you can take your chances and purchase bare root fruit trees next spring from a local nursery or orchard. Typically, the selection is very limited and you may not be able to purchase the exact fruit tree(s) you really want.
    When I pre-order my bare root fruit trees from Bay Laurel Nursery, my account is usually debited a couple of days before my chosen ship date (which is in February). No money is required upfront. :)

Hope you found this task list helpful. Until next time we chat ~ eat homegrown!

God Bless,


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My High Brix/Nutrient Dense Growing Style

HighBrixPost_23Hi Friends. Today’s the day I spill the beans on my growing style and give you a bit more insight as to why I do what I do and how I do what I do. It’s far from being a super big secret that I’ve been holding out on you. Over the past few years my blog has evolved from being focused on my home and property repair project, which included my orchard and garden, to being pretty much focused on my fruit trees and veggie garden. So to date, my posts have revolved around what I’m growing here in the desert along with some helpful how-to information. Basically the result of my growing style. Well, it’s high time I shared something with you that is near and dear to my heart.

Before I dig in, let me just start by saying that everyone has their own way of gardening and they may be in a different place in their understanding of the options out there for gardeners today ~ that’s okay and I totally respect that. For me personally, I’m absolutely thrilled when I’m able to share something that really “speaks” to someone and opens them up to something new and wonderful in their garden!

It’s also such an honor to be able to write my blog and share with you my experiences, knowledge and even challenges in both my orchard and garden. I love the fact that a lot of you send along such kind words about what I’m sharing and that we get the opportunity to encourage each other to grow baskets full of healthy nutritious fruits and veggies. That’s what friends are for!

I applaud all of you who are growing even just one edible in your garden and encourage you to keep at it. Who knows… maybe one day you’ll be growing most of your own food, too :D

What is My Growing Style?

HighBrixPost_8Just like my post’s title hints at… both hubby’s and my growing style is all about growing high brix/nutrient dense fruits and veggies. Our goalto grow the most nutritious and life-giving food as humanly possible. Some of you may be asking… “what does high brix/nutrient dense mean?”.

Essentially, a high brix/nutrient dense growing style is a method of gardening that focuses on growing fruit and veggies with the highest levels of nutrition (= sugar). This is accomplished by balancing the soil’s mineral content in order to attain a higher mineral content within the plant itself.

The higher the sugar content in a plant, the higher its mineral content and nutritional value

Brix is a method of measurement used to measure the sugar content within a plant by using a tool called a refractometer.


Our high brix regimen focuses on…

  • Soil Testing
  • Remineralizing and balancing the soil
  • Boosting microbial life in the soil
  • Growing nutritionally infused plants from seeds

The results…

  • Fruits and veggies taste and smell better
  • Fruit and veggie plants are bigger and healthier
  • Higher plant sugars
  • Fruits and veggies are heavier (minerals and trace elements weigh more)
  • Less insect issues
  • Higher ability to resist environmental stresses (i.e., drought, frost, heat, etc.)
  • Fruit and veggies have a longer shelf life

Why I Do What I Do

Why do I grow to achieve high brix in fruits and veggies? Sorry to disappoint, but the details I’m about to share with you are far from explaining why I am the way I am. So for now we can all thank God, my parents, and my life experiences for… me :D

Before we started growing our fruit orchard and veggie garden here in Las Vegas, hubby and I were certainly no strangers to gardening. We started gardening together over 25 years ago and our gardening style has evolved over the years from initially growing conventionally with N-P-K fertilizers and systemic pesticides (yikes!), to a more natural approach without pesticides or chemicals and eventually transitioned into our current way of growing.

Our focus on high brix/nutrient dense growing was intensified a hundred-fold due to major health issues that hubby and I experienced at about the same time. This is when we really started getting into growing the healthiest food we possibly could.

In early 2011, hubby and I came down with a severe case of the flu. From the get go, I experienced severe breathing issues in which I struggled to take in air. It took several weeks for hubby to fully recover, but my condition continued to worsen and my body became overwhelmed with multiple infections. Several months later and multiple emergency trips, specialist appointments, tests, antibiotics, and allergic reactions later, conventional medicine was unable to diagnosis my illness. That’s when I turned to Integrative Medicine.

Severely fatigued and barely able to eat, my integrative doctor placed me on a diet that completely eliminated dairy, wheat, gluten, sugar, yeast, chocolate, and processed foods. What was left? Fruits, veggies, protein and a few whole grains cooked in a way that I could easily digest… in soup.

My Spring 2014 GardenAt that time, my diet primarily consisted of store-bought fruits and veggies and my recovery was slow and incremental. By late 2013, my strength had improved enough that I was finally able to ease myself back into working my orchard and garden and primarily focused on growing leafy greens for my soups such as bok choi, tatsoi, collards, kale, beet greens, and swiss chard. When I started to eat most of my fruits and veggies from my own garden, the improvements in my health were nothing short of amazing. I was actually getting better :)

So if you haven’t guessed by now, the reason why hubby and I do what we do is… for our health. Pure and simple.

How I Do What I Do

First let me give credit where credit is due.  My hubby has been instrumental in helping us to move toward achieving our goal of growing high brix/nutrient dense foods. His behind-the-scene technical skills, additional research on the subject, and physical labor has been instrumental in the success we’ve seen to date. Thank you sweetie… for your support and hard work!

Okay… now for the exciting stuff. Below is the foundation of what we currently do and use to achieve high brix/nutrient dense fruits and veggies:

Soil Testing

When I mentioned soil testing earlier, I could literally hear people shuffling around checking for their wallet. Most people think that soil testing is super expensive and completely steer clear of it. Certainly, if you’re submitting multiple soil samples at the same time and add lots of additional tests to the basic soil test, it can become quite expensive.

A basic soil test can actually be rather reasonable in price and costs around $14 to $25.
The other good news is that it usually only needs to be done at least once a year

What does a basic soil test provide? Most labs perform what is called a Melich III test (see note below) that reports on things like: soil pH, % of organic matter, and values and/or saturation % for sulfur, phosphorous, calcium, magnesium, potassium, sodium, base saturation % and p.p.m for a handful of trace elements such as Boron, Iron, Manganese, Copper, Zinc and Aluminum. Certainly, enough information to determine your soil’s needs. Some labs offer soil amendment recommendations based on the results of the soil test as part of the cost or at an additional cost. A little later, I’ll explain a much better way to obtain a recommendation, especially if you want to grow high brix/nutrient dense foods.

Spectrum Analytics soil test

Two labs I recommend for soil testing (and have used) are Logan Labs in Ohio and Spectrum Analytic in Ohio. As of 7/21/2014, Spectrum Analytic’s S3 soil test costs $14 and Logan Labs’ basic soil test costs $25. Both tests provide about the same information.

Melich III test ~ this test works just fine for raised bed soils using imported top soils and/or compost but the Melich III is insufficient for accurately testing calcareous/high pH soils like our native soil here in Las Vegas, Nevada.

Is a soil test absolutely necessary for high brix growing? Myself personally, I believe soil testing is critical to achieving my high brix goals. I want a clear and accurate picture of how my soil is doing and what any excesses or deficiencies are so I can address them without playing mad professor mixing up a little of this and a little of that. But that’s just me.

Logan Labs, Inc soil testAnother option is to forgo soil testing and use a one-size-fits-all recipe using soil microbe friendly ingredients like the one that was developed by one of the leading experts in growing nutrient dense foods, Steve Solomon ~ author of The Intelligent Gardener. Choosing this route, a gardener can completely bypass soil testing and source and mix the ingredients as needed. To me, it’s sort of a shot in the dark approach but it might work just fine for some gardeners.

Obtaining Soil Test Recommendations for High Brix/Nutrient Dense Growing

I mentioned earlier that I would explain a much better way to obtain a soil test result recommendation, especially if the goal is to grow high brix/nutrient dense foods.

First, I wanted to point out something very important about lab recommendations (like Logan Labs or Spectrum Analytic). Though recommendations from a lab can be quite helpful, especially if a gardener uses conventional methods of growing by using N-P-K chemical-based fertilizers and such. Can this type of lab recommendation apply to high brix/nutrient dense growing? Could happen, but I haven’t seen any recommendations that were helpful in my growing situation.

The fact is, most lab recommendations are typically made for commercial applications where minimum inputs are wanted for maximum bulk. Basically, cheap powerful N-P-K chemical fertilizers for quick growth and size. The focus is definitely not on soil health or nutrition.

Here’s an awesome tip! There’s a company out there who is dedicated to helping home gardeners grow better quality foods. The company is called Grow Abundant Gardens and they offer a helpful super-inexpensive tool called OrganiCalc for home gardeners to use to obtain soil amendment recommendations based on the results of a soil test.

The gardener simply plugs in their soil test result numbers into the OrganiCalc tool and the tool will display the recommended soil mineral/amendment types and amounts. Super easy. Their recommendations are targeted at growing better quality food. There is also an option to email the test results to them for further discussion, if needed.

To use the OrganiCalc tool, there is an annual subscription cost of $9.50/year. I’ve used this tool myself a few times and I highly recommend it. P.S. ~ I’m not being paid in any way for this testimonial… I just think it’s an awesome tool available to home gardeners. Important note: OrganiCalc is currently only setup to accept soil test results from either Logan Labs or Spectrum Analytics.

Remineralize and balance the soil

Again, the higher the sugar content in a plant, the higher its mineral content and nutritional value. We are so on board with re-mineralizing our soil and strive to do this in a balanced way by adding the amendments in the proper ratio (based on a soil test). Too much of a good thing can be just as detrimental to the soil as not having enough.

Glacial Rock Dust and AzomitePart of our regimen includes using the following, as needed:

  • Colloidal Soft Rock Phosphate
  • Azomite
  • Glacial Rock Dust
  • Sea products like Kelp and Sea-Crop (which has 95% of the salts removed)
  • Worm castings Kelp Powder and Kelp Meal

Boost soil biology in the soil

Once the rock dusts and amendments are added to the soil, then what? We believe that soil biology (microbes, bacteria, protozoa, fungi, worms, etc.) has such an important role to play in the success of growing high brix/nutrient dense foods.

HighBrixPost_4Some of these hard workers help to break down the rock dusts and other organic matter into a form of food and nutrition that plants can readily take up. Others help to aerate the soil. The consequences would be catastrophic without them.

John & Bob'sHere are a few of the things we use to help these tiny little workers flourish in our orchard and garden:

  • Humus
  • Earthworms
  • John & Bob’s (Maximize, Nourish, Optimize and Penetrate)
  • Effective Microbes/Mother Culture
  • Mycorrhizae root inoculants

Endo Mycorrhizae Root InocculantTo incorporate all of this healthy goodness into our soil, we avoid tilling our soil by gently mixing the products into the first few inches only. We also incorporate many of these products (in small amounts) into each planting hole as we plant out our transplants and in our custom soil mix that we source and mix ourselves for use in making soil blocks to start seeds.

Feeding Regimen

We also use a holistic foliar spray that we source and mix up ourselves every 7-10 days to provide plants with the additional nutrition they need during their growing and fruiting stage. Some of the products we use are…

  • Organic Unsulfured Black Strap Molasses
  • Hydrolyzed Liquid Fish
  • 100% Cold Pressed Neem
  • Organic amendments and fertilizers (based on the needs of specific plants)

Pest Control

One of the benefits I’ve noticed in growing high brix/nutrient dense fruits and veggies is the fact that there are a lot less pest problems in my garden. Why are there less pest pressures with this type of growing method?

  • Insects can sense vibrations and recognize different infrared frequencies as being either a potential mate, food, water, etc. Plants that are deficient in mineral content (sugar) vibrate at a specific frequency that is readily recognized by insects as food. Mineral rich (high brix) plants vibrate at a much different frequency due to the higher mineral content. Based on the teachings of Philip Callahan of the University of Florida, a USDA entomologist.
  • This is reinforced by the fact that insects cannot digest the rich nutrients/sugars in high brix plants and become sick. Basically, they starve on a healthy plant!

“Insects and disease are the symptoms of a failing crop, not the cause of it.”
~ Dr. William Albrecht

It goes without saying that we still encounter pests in our garden, but our plants seem a lot less prone to infestation and there’s a lot less nibblin’ goin’ on. And, the pests that I have seen are readily picked off by the beneficials and birds in our garden. Except for those nasty bragada bugs… nobody likes them, so we had to intervene with our soapy water spray and even at that, they were just on one plant ~ now, I haven’t seen one in weeks. Teamwork at its finest :D

Beneficial Cellophane Bee

With all that said, we still do keep things on hand to address any potential pest challenges that may arise. Everything we use in our orchard and garden is safe for microbial/soil health as well as the beneficial insects and pollinators, like the Cellophane Bee (photo above). Using these types of products allows them to continue to thrive and further assist us in obtaining a natural and healthy balance. We use things like…

  • 100% Cold Pressed Neem
  • Soapy water (using either a biodegradable soap or pure-castile soap)
  • Aromatic Essential Oils
  • Pepper/wax spray
  • OMRI approved citrus peel oil extract
  • Diatomaceous earth (used very sparingly in targeted applications only)

Neem Oil and SoapI found a very interesting article you might like to read on the topic of pests and high brix that was written by Oscar Morand from the Permaculture Research Institute.

Growing Nutritionally Infused Plants From Seeds

In addition to everything else we do in our garden, I grow all of our veggie plants from seed. This allows me to kick-start my high brix/nutrient dense garden. Starting from seeds also gives me a wider selection of plant varieties to choose from.

Favorie Seed CatalogsSure, buying and using transplants already potted up is the easiest way to grow a garden, but I actually enjoy growing my own plants from seed. It’s especially rewarding to see all your hard work grow to be a big, beautiful, fruitful plant :D

Rather than spend money on plastic pots that will eventually add to our landfill problem, I opted to try making my own soil blocks. I absolutely fell in love with soil block making! They are so economical to make and so much better for your little seedlings. The 2” block is quite inexpensive (around $30) and saves money over the long run over buying a constant supply of peat, manure, or plastic pots.

Soil Block Maker My favorite soil block maker is the 2” block size. When I first started working with the soil block tool, it took a couple of tries to get my technique down, but now I’m a pro. Today, I can easily crank out a full flat of 2” soil blocks in under 10 minutes. That’s 32 blocks total! I usually grow about six full flats of 2” blocks per season. That’s 192 high brix plants, baby!

Seed StorageTo make my soil blocks, I source and mix my own custom soil blend and incorporate some of the products I use in my garden to help give my seedlings a great high brix start.

At transplant I also like to incorporate the following:

  • John & Bob’s (Maximize, Optimize, and Nourish)
  • Mycorrhizae root inoculant
  • Rock Dust (a little sprinkle for good measure)
  • In the fall, I also plan on testing a product called Transplant Formula (see below); using this product may allow me to eliminate some of the products above

FYI ~ I’m also a huge fan of companion planting and intensive growing, too!

How We Grow High Brix/Nutrient Dense Food On a Tight Budget

Regardless of the type of fruit and veggie gardening method a gardener chooses to use, there will always be some level of investment in the care and maintenance of their garden. Whether the garden is grown using conventional methods such as chemical fertilizers and pesticides or a more natural approach is used such as high brix gardening, the investment is always there.

HighBrixPost_6Is one method more expensive than the other? It depends on what your goals are for your garden. Both conventional and high brix/nutrient dense growing can become quite expensive. It’s highly dependent upon the products, tools and plant materials chosen.

Personally, I consider my orchard and garden an investment in our health, but we do live on a limited modest budget and simply do not have a money tree growing in either our front or backyard orchards. With that in mind, we take great care in choosing the products we purchase for our orchard and garden and do everything we can to avoid waste. Waste includes using unnecessary excessive amounts of product. The soil testing definitely helps with that.

HighBrixPost_5Believe it or not, most of the items we use are actually quite economical because a little goes a long way in the garden. Even with that said, we’re always on the lookout for great deals and ways to save money so we can continue to invest in our health.

One huge challenge we face here in the Las Vegas area is the fact that quality garden resources are scarce and almost impossible to find. Because of this, most of what we buy are from online sources and finding deals with free shipping is critical for us. Another savings technique we use is to buy in bulk. It’s especially helpful and cost-effective when we’re able to split an order with someone else.

What’s Next?

We’re currently trying out a new soil testing lab (at least it’s new for us), who is dedicated to helping both farmers and home gardeners grow high brix/nutrient dense foods. The lab is called International Ag Labs, Inc. and they offer a biological approach to farming and gardening based on the teachings of Carey Reams. The company has a few different websites that can be a bit confusing, so I’ve provided a brief description of each along with a link.

International Ag Labs, Inc.  ~ soil testing/consulting (farmers and home gardeners) and product sales to commercial farmers only

High Brix Gardens ~ very detailed informational site for home gardeners about growing high brix/nutrient dense foods

Fix My Soil ~ the local dealer’s website for product sales to home gardeners

This company is a professional lab that analyzes soil samples using a different approach than most labs as well as providing more details on mineral/trace element data and microbial activity.

International Ag Labs, Inc is the only lab in the country to offer the Morgan Extract (weak acid) test. International Ag Labs believes this test is more accurate than other soil tests and more accurately reveals what the plant can actually utilize from the soil.

The lab also offers a suite of foliar sprays, soil drenches and dry broadcast products formulated specifically for high brix/nutrient dense growing and do provide product recommendations along with their soil test results. They will even mix up a custom blended soil prescription for the specific needs of your soil, if desired (this service is available through Fixmysoil.com). The lab only sells direct to commercial farmers, but they do have a home gardener division and sells through a qualified dealer only. Their product line is quite impressive and has a lot of positive feedback from high brix/nutrient dense gardening enthusiasts.

Hubby and I submitted soil samples from our orchard and raised beds to this company a week or so ago and are waiting anxiously for the results.

One of the products that we did decide to purchase from them “before the results were in”, and a lot of high brix/nutrient dense growers are excited about, is called Transplant Formula. This product was a bit on the pricier side, but it should last for a very long time since its application only requires one tablespoon per plant at the time of planting.

Transplant FormulaThe product contains:

  • 4 different calcium compounds
  • 4 microbial packages to inoculate root systems
  • 5 volcanic rock powders with quick acting enzymes
  • 4 ‘biostimulant’ carbon sources

We’re still in the process of evaluating this company and their products, so I’m hesitant to recommend them to anyone as of yet. I’ll keep you updated on our evaluation progress.

Some Awesome Resources

For those of you who are interested in learning more about high brix/nutrient dense growing, I’ve gathered together a few links and resources for you to start with.  I’ve also included a few books in our home gardening library that we find indispensable that you may find interesting as well.


  • The Intelligent Gardener by Steve Solomon and Erica Reinheimer
  • Nourishment Home Grown by Dr. A. Beddoe
  • The Ideal Soil: A Handbook for the New Agriculture by Michael Astera

Hope you found this post interesting. Certainly, if you have any questions please feel free to leave me a comment.

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God Bless,




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To Catch A Squirrel

Squirrel1Hi friends!  Hope you’re having an awesome summer so far and growing lots of yummy summer fresh fruits and veggies in your garden.

For those of you who have been following my blog, you may remember me mentioning something about the squirrel challenges we’ve been having on our property.  Especially in and around our fruit orchard.  Yeah… squirrels like fruit.  They like fruit, a lot.

I discovered their insatiable taste for fruit last year while sitting in my office .  It was by pure chance that I happened to glance out the window at the exact same moment a squirrel decided to pluck a juicy sweet prize from my fig tree.  I sat there in disbelief as I watched the nimble little desert squirrel meander up the trunk, hop over to a branch, then skirt along the top of the branch toward the tip where the fruit was.  All this just outside my window.  In a matter of seconds the sneaky critter plucked a nice big fat fig off my tree and with the fruit tightly clutched in its squirrelly little teeth, it scurried back down the tree to begin its nibbling feast.  At that very moment I realized that we now two orchard nuisances on our hands.  Birds and squirrels.


White-Tailed Antelope Squirrel

I created this graphic for an earlier post I did and
thought it was very appropriate to use again for this squirrelly little guy!

Early this harvest season, things were very quiet.  A couple of small birds pecked at a few of our Flavor Delight Apriums, but no squirrels were in sight. Until mid-way through our Nectarine harvest when we noticed the tell-tale sign of squirrel activity… half eaten fruit on the ground.  As the days went on, the number of half eaten fruit kept increasing so Hubby and I decided it was time to reenact our squirrel relocation program.  So we pulled out the traps and readied the yummy bait for the squirrels arrival the next morning.

Squirrel4As you probably know, there are a couple of basic ways to eradicate a squirrel problem.  One way is the kill method by the use of poisons and trigger traps. The other way is the catch and release method by use of live animal traps.  Sure, you can avoid both methods and try to divert their attention by offering them yummy snacks somewhere else on your property, but there is no guarantee they’ll prefer your “offered” treats over your yummy delish fruit. I prefer the catch and release method myself.  It’s more kind to the animal and lets them thrive… somewhere else :D  Just because their fruit dining is unwelcome in my orchard, I see no reason to kill the little guys. Now, it would be a completely different story if I had an infestation of squirrels on my property of epic proportions, then there may be a real need for the kill method, especially if it threatens harm to my animals or to my family and myself.  These cute little doe eyed critters can be carriers of some pretty nasty stuff such as plague bacteria (Yersinia pestis).  They can also pass on lice :P

No matter what method is used, always take care to treat the animal in a gentle and respectful way.  Planting delicious fruits and veggies will attract unwanted guests of the furry and winged kind, and as caretakers of our own little slice of Eden, it is our responsibility to watch over and care for all of God’s creation.

Squirrel7Our Bait

When setting up our live traps, we always like to use something tantalizing and delicious for the squirrels.  Something that can fill their belly before the trip to their new home.  Almond slices is our preferred bait food. Gets them every time.

Squirrel6Once a squirrel is captured, I like to give it a couple of pieces of cut-up fruit (whatever’s in season in our orchard) by slipping it between the holes in the cage.  After I leave, the squirrel takes the fruit and eats it every time :)  The fruit helps to give them moisture just in case they have to sit in the cage for a while before we can release them.  We never let them sit in the cage more than a couple of hours.

One important thing I want to point out is that we always set up the traps underneath the shade of our fruit trees, usually the tree they are feasting on at the time.  This helps to protect the captured squirrel from roasting in the sun which would lead to overheating and dehydration and ultimately, certain death.

The Release

After their capture and final meal from our orchard, we pack up the cage(s) and head out to their new home site… a large open space far from houses, buildings, and traffic. Somewhere with some vegetation so they can quickly find cover and start making a new home for themselves.Squirrel8Once we arrive at the selected site, we’ll carefully take the cage(s) out of the car and position the trap so that the door is facing toward their new destination.  Then, with a quick pull of the lever and the trap door opened, it’s usually only seconds before the captured squirrel realizes its route to freedom and shoots out of the cage like a rocket happily hopping away to take cover.  Now their fate will be decided upon by the natural processes of nature.  Who knows, they may flourish and have a family of their own or succumb to the deadly talons of a hawk or owl.  All I know is that I treated the squirrel as kindly as I could before sending it on its way and that there will be one less set of teeth to gnaw on my sweet and delicious fruit :DSquirrel3We started putting out traps in early June and lost count as to how many little squirrels we’ve caught and released to date.  Last count was about 19 squirrels. We even caught this guy in our trap one day…

Bird_061014_2What?  You’re not a squirrel! When I went out to check on the traps to make certain they were in shade, I heard an unfamiliar sound coming from the trap underneath our fig tree. It was a small bird.  This was definitely a first. It obviously had been hopping along the ground underneath the fig when it unexpectedly hopped into the trap.  Ooops!

Bird_061014_5The little bird was clearly in distress so I quickly released it from its captivity.  It happily flew away to probably come back and feast on my fruit later :(

So where’s Pinny, our garden and orchard protector, during all this fun activity?

Well… she’s always the first to alert us that a squirrel has been captured.  Upon letting her outside, the first order of business is to chase away any birds on her property (even birds flying over) then, she immediately checks each trap to see if a squirrel is inside. She’s such a good girl. She refrains from harassing the little guys too much and will usually stand pointing her nose at the trap for me to see, then she’ll lay down beside the trap to make sure the squirrel is behaving itself.

If no squirrels are in the traps, she’ll run over to the pile of rocks where she knows they like to hide in and will proceed to sniff around.  When she’s finally certain no threat is present, she’ll grab her ball and lay underneath the shade of our Weeping Santa Rosa Plum (her favorite tree) and play quietly… waiting patiently for the furry and winged intruders to present themselves.


What’s pestering your garden or fruit trees this summer?  I’d love to hear all about it. Just leave a comment below :)

Hope you have something awesome planned for this weekend!

God Bless,

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Filed under Fruit Trees/Orchard, Pest Control, Squirrels

Summer’s Treat… Tomatoes

Tomato9Hi Friends! What types of summer veggies are you eating from your garden this year? Like most gardeners in the U.S., I’m sure your garden is filled with things like eggplants, onions, herbs, peppers, melons, corn and at least one tomato plant this summer. Am I right?

As the diehard gardeners that you are, I’m sure most, if not all of you, have done your share of research on the sun kissed rosy red beauties we fondly refer to as the tomato. I know I have and wow, I’m just blown away by the amount of choices we have as gardeners ~ proof that this fruit is one of the most beloved of summer’s bounty.

There are literally hundreds, if not thousands of different varieties to choose from! It’s puzzling as to why anyone would settle for the same ole “go-to-tomato” year after year when there are so many others to choose from and try out in your garden.  Just a simple search on the internet will reveal the vast world of tomatoes with very little effort.

Tomato11Okay, with that said, in my hearts of hearts I love to go outside of my box and try different and unique varieties of veggies, but this year I am sort of one of those “safe” people. At least when it comes to the tomatoes I chose to plant this year.  Pretty boring really.  In a previous post I mentioned that I had several old tomato seed packets that are at least 6-7 years old and that I purchased locally here in town.  Rather than toss them out, I decided to see if they would germinate.  They did, so into the garden they went.  That simple. That boring.

One interesting point about these tomatoes, besides the fact that a lot of people here in town grow them, is that they helped open my eyes to the possibilities of gardening here. That and finding my first local gardening resource here in town.

As I began to write this post and started to jot down some thoughts about these tomatoes, I realized that when I bought them so many years ago, I was literally at the tail end of my gardening in the desert “doubting phase”.  A phase I think most folks who move here go through because the desert can feel so foreign, especially to those coming from an area with lots of trees and greenery. Sadly for some, this phase can last a lifetime.  For others, especially those who refuse to accept defeat, move through their doubts slowly and with a focused purpose.

Throughout this doubting phase, I was unwilling to let my gardening dream die.  I was uncertain as to what that dream really looked like here, but I was determined all the same.  I wanted a garden to grow my own food… period. With an unwavering resolve, I began to wade through my doubts and misinformation and decided to step out of the “naysayer circle”.  When I did this, I actually happened upon my first local resource here in town. Even today, I’m uncertain as to why this first local resource was so difficult to find, especially for someone who’s fairly skilled at researching.  Perhaps it was the nagging doubt clouding my mind or the shock of how dry and lifeless it seemed here.  Or, maybe my eyes were only half-open at the time and I was unwilling to see the possibilities.  Who knows, really.  Once this door of information was open, the flood gates burst open. Well actually, it was more like a slow domino effect at first.  One connection led to another, then another.  The information came my way in nibble sized bits.  As my understanding and knowledge grew, then the flood gates opened with no end in sight :DTomato14

Okay, now that I’m back from memory lane, I thought I’d share some of the details on how these “ole reliables” are performing in my garden. I only refer to them as “ole reliables” because these are the tomatoes promoted by some of the local gardening resources here in town and not directly from my experience with them.


Here’s the performance rundown so far:

Tomato5Hawaiian Tropic (hybrid) ~ Right off the bat, for me this tomato has one big strike against it.  The reason?  It’s a hybrid variety. I like to save seeds and because its a hybrid variety, any seeds I save and try to grow will not grow true to the parent plant. Other than that, this variety has produced loads of fruit so far and is growing well with the trellised single stem method I’m using.  The plant has had new growth recently and is continuing to climb up the trellis and produce more flowers and fruit. So far nothing has slowed down it’s growth, not even in our heat.

One thing I did notice is when our temps hit 105ºF, this tomato’s leaves exhibited a small amount of leaf browning and curling. This curling has been more pronounced since we received rain over the past few days.  The humidity in the air is quite noticeable.  I’ve also had a few fruit split on me recently, too. So frustrating when you’ve been anticipating the ripening of a beautiful perfect tomato only to find it split as it ripens.

Sorry folks, but I have to say that I’m not really impressed with the taste of this one.  I’ve heard so much hoopla about this tomato that I was expecting some heaven transcending experience when I ate it, but… I’ve had better.  I took a brix reading ~ a disappointing at 5.5 brix (= between poor and average).  I’m sure if the brix was higher it would have a better taste. What is a brix reading? See a brix chart.

Hubby and I are working hard to improve our garden soil by adding minerals/rock dusts and other nutrition building amendments that will help to increase the brix (nutrition) levels of our fruits and veggies.

070514_TomatoHeartland VFN (hybrid) ~ Like Hawaiian Tropic, this is a hybrid variety.  So far, this plant has stayed quite compact, but has produced just about as much fruit as the Hawaiian Tropic.  During a recent fruit count I did, both varieties had about 42 fruit in various stages of growth.  Thing is… Heartland is literally about half the size. Quite impressive.

This variety has experienced similar ailments as the Hawaiian Tropic, but has had a few more fruit split issues recently.  And, the taste is average.

Another disappointing brix reading… 5.0 brix (= between poor and average).

070514_Tomato4Green Grape (heirloom) ~ This variety of tomato is an heirloom variety.  It has performed well in my garden, though trying to tell when it was ripe the first time out was a short trial and error period.  Basically, when the green fruit turns a nice deep shade of yellow-green, it’s ready for harvest. This plant also has some recent leaf curling and browning, but continues to be a good producer so far  And the flavor is quite nice, far better than the first two.  Yup, and as expected, the brix reading on this tomato was much better that the last two also.  This came in at 8.0 brix (=Good).

070514_Tomato10Sweetie Cherry (open-pollinated) ~ This little guy is an open-pollinated variety and is so prolific both in growth and in fruit quantity.  This tomato plants has just about reached the top of my trellis which stands about 8′ high.  One thing to mention about this little cherry tomato (at least in my garden) is the continual number of browning and browning/die back.  I’m constantly trimming off dead sections of this plant but they are quickly replaced by a healthy green sucker, which I let grow to take its place. This browning and die-back characteristic doesn’t phase its performance in the least.  The fruit is super sweet, too with a brix reading of 9.0 brix (= between good and excellent).Stupice (Stu-peech-ka) (heirloom) ~ Here’s another heirloom and it’s a potato leaf tomato variety.  I actually started this plant from seed directly in the garden.  All the other tomato plants I started from seed indoors.  In the garden, it germinated very quickly and has grown like a weed.  I started this plant about a month later than all the rest and have yet to taste the fruit or test the brix on it.  I’m anticipating fruit soon since it currently has several flowers on it and a few small fruit :)

Roma (heirloom) ~ An heirloom variety.  I’m still on the fence with this one.  The fruit is much smaller than I expected and is supposed to be a determinate variety, but it sure is not acting like one.  Also, rather than trellising or caging this plant, I let it sprawl and as a result it has taken over a large section of my raised bed.

I do love the taste of these little tomatoes, but this plant seems to be more temperamental than the rest and has had quite a bit of die back in the center of the plant.  Inspite the dieback, the recent new growth on it is beautiful and green. I’ve also been finding blossom end rot on some of the tomatoes.  I’m currently working toward resolving this issue.

The brix reading was far from impressive at 5.0 brix. I’m certain if the brix were higher the tomato taste would be phenomenal.


Next Summer Season

For next year’s summer tomato parade in my garden I will definitely be trying out some new varieties.  Now friends, if you’re a crazed gardener like I am (yeah, you know you are) summer’s only just begun and you already have a summer seed wish list created for next year (shock!).

Well, here’s the short list version of my long list (all are supposed to do well in the heat)…

  • Punta Banda ~ heirloom
  • Nichols Pink cherry ~ heirloom
  • Violet Jasper ~ heirloom
  • Marianna’s Peace ~ heirloom

What about the ole reliables, the “tried and trues”? They have served their purpose and will be retired at the end of this summer season, at least in my garden.  Thank you ole reliables… until we meet again.


What Tomatoes Varieties Are You Growing This Summer?

I’d love to hear from you about the varieties of tomatoes you’re growing this year and how they’re doing for you ~ just leave a comment below :)

Sharing at


Happy tomato eating!

God Bless

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Filed under In The Veggie Garden

July Orchard Tasks

Egg_070114Hi friends… hope you’re finding ways to stay cool this summer.  You know its July when the outside temps here turn from hot to sizzling hot.  Recently, our daytime temps have been around 105°F and this week we’re expecting the temps to be even hotter.  110°F to be exact.  It’s supposed to cool down a bit the first part of next week, to a cool 102°F.  It’s definitely gonna be a hot 4th of July.  Wondering about the egg photo? Since it’s so hot, I thought it would be a silly fun photograph for my post, so I cracked an egg on the concrete out back (exact time:  2:15PM).  Will it really cook in this heat?  Doubt it.  Check out this interesting link.

At 3:58PM, I used my temp gun to measure the concrete’s surface temperature… it’s registered at 141°F.  Check out the results at the end of this post.

Any plans for 4th of July?  We usually stay home and help “soothe” our doggie’s nerves when the fireworks start going off.  Pinny has never been a fan of fireworks and really struggles with the flashes and startling explosive sounds. As most of you might agree, 4th of July usually starts in most neighborhoods about a week or so in advance with random fireworks going off here and there.  Then continues off and on well past the official holiday date until neighbor firework supplies have been depleted.

Our youngest kitty, Jaspurr, takes his que from Pinny.  When she freaks out, he freaks out and typically hides and is nowhere to be found for several hours.  Buddies to the core.  It just breaks my heart that they are so frightened by the fireworks.  Ginger, our oldest kitty, is such a skittish little kitty with everything except fireworks.  She sleeps right through the noise and hoopla with no issue.  Go figure.

Aside from the expected temporary disruption to our little family, we always try to make the best of it by grilling something on the BBQ then watching a movie or two with the volume set several times louder than we’d usually have it to help drown out the sounds.

Moving on… here’s this month’s orchard task list.  A lot of the items are the same as June’s Orchard Task list but there are a few differences so be sure to check it out.070114_Pluot

  • Irrigation ~ now that temps are consistently hitting 105°F, it’s time to change-up the watering schedule. This time of year, I water all of my fruit trees 3x a week… typically Monday, Wednesday and Friday for 20 minutes each session. Baby trees can still be watered for about 15 minutes each session, but since all of my trees are on the same watering system, they all get watered for 20 minutes with this one change… I turn down the bubbler heads on my young trees so they get a little less water. My goal for them is about 15 gallons of water each session.
    • If Temps drop back down to 100°F if the day-time temperature drops back down to 100°F consistently for a few days, I’ll back off on my watering to 2x per week, but this is pretty rare here in our desert summer heat.
    • Monsoon Rains:  I keep a close watch out for rain in the forecast and turn off the water to my trees when rain is expected. After it rains, I wait a couple of days before resuming my normal watering schedule, depending on how much rain there was and how saturated the soil still is. Sometimes I’ll use my moisture meter to help determine this, but mostly I just look at the surface of the soil… with our native soil, it’s very easy to tell if the soil is still really wet.
  • Continue to pick up fallen fruit ~ As long as there is fruit to harvest, this will be a recurring task and for some trees, a daily task. For instance, as soon as the temps start to rise, my Saturn Peach tree starts dropping fruit, especially if I missed removing any bird-pecked fruit while harvesting. This half-eaten fruit inevitably starts to decay and rot on the tree then falls to the ground in a mushy mess which quickly turns into a soupy smelly mess.
    Tip: I like to store a small rake, with an empty plastic grocery bag tied to the handle, somewhere nearby the trees I’m harvesting to make quick work of collecting and disposing of fallen fruit.
  • Harvest fruit this month ~ Yum! Depending on where you’re located and the variety of fruit you have growing, you could be harvesting the following fruit this month:
    • Apples
    • Apricots
    • Asian Pears
    • Blueberries
    • Figs
    • NectaPlums
    • Nectarines
    • Peaches
    • Pears
    • Plums
    • Pluots

I’m currently harvesting

    • Dorsett Golden Apple
    • Saturn Peaches
    • Black Mission Figs
    • Weeping Santa Rosa Plums


  • Keep harvested fruit out of direct sunlight ~ Besides the tips mentioned in June’s Orchard Tasks, bringing out an ice chest (with a handle and wheels) filled ½ way with ice is always helpful this time of year. Be sure to keep the fruit elevated out of any water by using a tray of some sort.
  • Summer Prune ~ continue to summer prune, if needed
  • Keep weeds under control ~ One helpful tip I failed to mention last month on this subject is that it’s super helpful to spread around a 3-inch to 4-inch layer of wood mulch on the ground, especially if you have areas with bare dirt. It works great to suppress the weeds.  Just remember, if your trees are less than 5 years old, keep the wood mulch away from the trunk at least 6-inches.
  • Continue to protect your fruit from bird damage.  Be sure to check out my post on bird netting.
  • Keep checking for and addressing pests in your backyard orchard.
    • Borers are out this month here in Las Vegas, Nevada. Be sure to check your fruit trees for any sap coming from the trunk, main scaffolds, branch crotch areas and branches.  Check out the UC IPM site for more info on Peachtree Borers and Peach Twig Borers.
    • Fire Ants and other ants are out in full force this month.

Right now we’re experiencing an ant problem. A Southern Fire Ant problem to be exact. We’ve seen no signs of aphids on our trees, but the ants love to trail up onto the tree branches and feast on any fruit with open wounds (like from bird pecking). The thought of ants climbing around in my fruit trees barely registers on my “bug-on-me-freak-out-reaction-meter” like unexpectedly grabbing onto a spider or stink bug when harvesting fruit. It’s the painful fiery reminder that these ants give you when you inadvertently stir up a marching army of them. Fire ants are common place on our property and boy do those suckers hurt.

We’ve been spreading diatomaceous earth on them when we find large masses of them. Time permitting, we may still spread a DE slurry onto the trunks of our fruit trees, but it probably would have been better to do this a few weeks back.

This weekend we will kick up our search and destroy efforts by scouting around more thoroughly on our property to find entry points into their homes. Especially around my raised beds.  They seem to love my summer squash blossoms. So much so, there’s usually too many to count deep inside the flower itself.  Even the bees are a bit reluctant to go inside to collect pollen and pollinate.  Every time I try to manually pollinate the squash flowers, the ants go completely berserk and usually get on my hand and bite. Ouch!  I can’t tell you how many welts I’ve had on my right hand this week alone.  It’s time to pull out the citrus peel extract (d-Limonene) product and go medieval on their mounds.  I can also make up some special treats for them. Bite on this you fiery suckers!

Yeah, I know… it’s not a pretty sight.  Every year I get bit by these guys then rant about it and even dedicate an entire blog post to it.  Yes, a teeny tiny red and black insect has brought me to this point.  Sad but true.

  • Protect your fruit trees from squirrels, rabbits and other rodents ~ our “catch and release” program this year has been quite successful so far. I’ll be putting out a post on it soon.


  • Protect yourself from the heat!
    • Work in the cool of the morning and evening ~ this time of year I recommend doing time and labor-intensive tasks, like pruning and harvesting, during the morning hours between 5:30 AM ~ 10:00 AM – and/or – in the evening hours between 6:00 PM ~ 7:30PM; I know this can be challenging with a full-time job, but just remember… this is the fun stuff :)
    • Wear protective clothing and accessories such as a long sleeve shirt made of a lightweight sun-blocking fabric, a nice wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses or protective eye wear, and gloves.
    • Stay hydrated ~ bring out a container of cool water with you to drink
    • Take frequent breaks ~ sit in the shade for a few minutes and drink your water
  • Make time to preserve and savor your bounty ~
    • can jams and pie fillings, fruit halves, puree’s, fruit salsas and pickled fruit for use now and later
    • dehydrate fruit for use in future recipes, for granola or — make a homemade trail mix for hiking or camping trips or make yummy fruit roll-ups with different spices and nuts for snacking
    • bake cookies, sweet breads and other delectable sweet treats
    • or freeze your bounty for later use in smoothies and juices ~ just think, fresh peach smoothies all summer long and in the middle of November… yum!
  • Continue feeding your fruit trees by using either a quality organic foliar spray or a soil-microbe friendly fertilizer. You can also add soil and microbe enriching amendments now, too.
    This time of year hubby and I continue to spray a holistic homemade foliar spray on all of our fruit trees except on our Asian pears.  They are more sensitive to the neem oil in our mix so we opt to spray the soil only around those trees.
  • Start Writing Your Fruit Tree Wish List at the end of this month. Planning to start a fruit orchard or add to an existing home fruit orchard? Now is the time to research your bare root fruit tree options.  Bay Laurel Nursery is my favorite online source for purchasing bare root fruit trees. They have a wonderful selection, awesome customer service and replacement guarantee, reasonable prices and shipping costs, great packaging and is a distributor of Dave Wilson Nursery fruit trees, which in my opinion (and the opinion of many other experienced orchardists) are the absolute best fruit tree stock available.

Unsure whether to buy bare root or containerized fruit trees and would like to learn more about the differences between the two? Be sure to check out my posts Step 3: Purchasing the Fruit Trees (Part 1)  (Part 2)  and (Part 3) where I talk about bare root vs. containerized fruit trees in detail.

Now for the results of my concrete cooked egg…

070114_eggNow that’s highly unappealing.  Yuck! Sorry folks, it’s pretty disgusting, but this is what an egg looks like at the end of a 110°F day… if you ever wondered.  Mmmmm.  Who wants breakfast :P  Back to more pleasant things…

Until next time, happy harvesting.


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